The Best Glaze Mixing Accessories For Ceramic Studios

Originally published June 2020. Most recent update: September 2025.

Mixing your own glazes from scratch is cost-effective and allows you to customize glazes to suit your studio. Whether you are mixing a powdered glaze with water, or weighing each ingredient and starting from scratch, having the ability to mix glazes opens up possibilities in your studio. You don’t need a huge set up to get started, a few simple tools and buckets are all you need. Below are reviews of our favorite glaze-mixing accessosories.

This list includes:

• Drills

• Immersion Blenders

• Sieves and Strainers

• Dust Protection

• Mixer Blades

• Scales

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Drills

A drill is one of the most important glaze-mixing tools. Sure, you could get a big whisk or paddle and mix your glaze by hand, but….a drill is just easier and faster.

For a drill, my favorite is the Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill. It’s compact, well built, and affordable. And it has enough power to mix a 5 gallon bucket and just enough power to mix 10 gallons of glaze. It’s also cordless, which I find easier to use in the studio but you do sacrifice some power and you have to recharge the battery and possibly, spend a bit extra on a second battery.

There are a lot of drill options out there, with all sorts of options, battery and cord styles. For more info, check out the Studio Manager Cordless Drill Review and our Corded Drill Review

Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill Driver Kit with Charger and 1 Battery
$129 at Home Depot and Amazon

The Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill.

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Immersion Blender

The Mueller immersion blender.

For small batches of glaze, especially test batches, an immersion blender is a great tool. They won’t mix more than a quart or 2 of glaze, but they really shine for mixing small amounts of glaze.

A great option for studio use is the Mueller 8 Speed Immersion Blender. It doesn’t have the most robust build quality, but at around $35, this is one of the more affordable immersion blenders on the market. If you think you’ll be using an immersion blender all the time, you might upgrade to something with a better build quality, or just consider using a regular drill.

Mueller 8 Speed Immersion Blender
$35

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Sieves and Strainers

A sieve is an important part of mixing glazes. A sieve insures that particles are broken up and that the ingredients are evenly distributed in the glaze. Proper mixing and straining also reduces glazes flaws, generally resulting in a more even glaze. If you are mixing glazes from dry powder or from scratch, you must run them through a sieve. Generally, I have a variety of sieves in the studio including a simple kitchen sieve, a smaller tea strainer, and specialized tools such as the Talisman Rotary Sieve.

The Talisman Rotary Sieve.

Talisman Rotary Sieve

The best tool for sieving glazes is the Talisman Rotary Sieve. This is a large, hand-cranked sieve that will fit over a 5 or 10 gallon bucket. It has three brushes which can be removed for cleaning (or replaced if worn out) and removable screens. This allows you to choose which size of mesh to screen your glaze. Typically, this is done somewhere between 80 to 120 mesh. The Talisman Rotary Sieve is expensive, usually $170-250, but it makes short work of the sieving process and the brush system helps break up smaller particles, resulting in a uniform glaze batch. It’s an incredibly well-built tool and if handled with respect, it will hold up for decades of use. Talisman Rotary Sieves are typically only available from speciality clay supply stores, so shop clay stores online or contact your local clay supplier.

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Talisman Test Sieve

Test Sieves

Another option, especially for glaze test batches, is a cup sieve such as the Talisman Test Sieve. These small sieves are stackable, come in a variety of mesh sizes from 5 to 250, and are really well built. Typically, screening your glaze at 40 mesh first and 80 mesh second will get the job done. Talisman sieves are 4 1/2 inches wide at the top and 3 1/4 inches wide on the bottom level.

If Talisman sieves aren’t available, the Labalpha 4 inch wide metal test sieves are great too.

Labalpha 4 inch wide metal test sieve.

Labalpha Metal Test Sieves or Talisman Test Sieves
$24 each at Amazon

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Cuisinart Fine Mesh Steel Strainer

Fine Mesh Steel Strainers

Another useful tool is a kitchen steel mesh strainer. These are not fine enough for a final glaze strain, but the wider mesh is still useful for quickly breaking up chunks of material. They are also great for quickly processing glaze in order to remove any bisque chunks.

When mixing glaze, materials such as Wollastonite, Soda Ash, Borax, Zinc Oxide, and most oxides used for colorants and others must be run through glaze sieve (usually 80 mesh), but if you start with a kitchen sieve, you’ll get the big chunks out quickly and can have an easier time with the glaze sieve. Smaller strainers such as a tea strainer are also useful for quickly running an underglaze or small batch through mesh. Sometimes, a simple mix and strain can bring a thickened glaze, underglaze, or slip back to being easy to use.

A great option for a kitchen steel mesh strainer is the Cuisinart 3 pack of Fine Mesh Metal Strainers. The all-metal design makes it easy to clean and maintain, and the variety of sizes will help with most small to medium glaze batches, or if you need to quickly strain a chunky material before running it through a finer mesh. There is also a link to a similar product by ExcelSteel at Home Depot.

Cuisinart Fine Mesh Metal Strainer 3 pack
$16 at Amazon

Excelsteel Strainer 3 Pack
$17.50 at Home Depot

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Recommended Sieve Sizes

Here’s a useful chart of recommended sieve mesh sizes to use when mixing glaze, slip, and casting slip.

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Face Masks and Dust Protection

Dust protection and personal protection equipment is vital when mixing glazes. The main worry is any sort of airborne particles, particularly the finest particles such as silica. Repeated exposure to these particles, found in all dry glaze and clay materials, can lead to respiratory problems. Some also choose to wear plastic gloves when mixing and using glazes. The best thing when thinking about gloves is to assess your own risk and work to understand what is in glazes and what may be dangerous.

Respirator

The 3M Half Facepiece Respirator with P100 cartridge style filters.

The best dust protection is a respirator. These devices are reusable, fit on your face more tightly than a dust mask, and the filters can be replaced as needed. Although moisture can build up, I find them to be more comfortable than a paper or surgical type mask, and they definitely provide a tighter fit. One drawback though, is you can’t really talk to anyone while they are on.

For a respirator, a great option is a 3M half facepiece respirator with P100 filters. They are usually widely available, so it’s easy to find replacement filters in stores or online.

If you don’t want to get a respirator, at the very least get a N95 or KN95 mask and wear it whenever you are working with dry glaze or clay materials. Also be aware, fine particles can remain in the air for a while, use caution when mixing and try to keep dust out of the air.

For more, see our complete article on dust masks for studios.

3M Half Facepiece Respirator with P100 Dust Filters
$28 at Amazon or $29 at Lowes

3M Half Facepiece Respirator with P100 VOC Cartridges
$39 at Home Depot

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Mixing Blades and Paddles

The right mixer blade will make your glaze and slip mixing quick and efficient. It’s best to stock different size mixers for mixing different amounts of glaze. These are the mixing blades I stock in my own studio.

The small Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade, also called a laboratory mixer.

Small Mixer Blade

To mix pint jars and small cups, the Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade is just the right size. It’s 10 1/4” long with a 1 1/4” head.

This Mixer Blade can usually be found for around $20

Helix mixer blade for 1 to 2 gallon buckets

MEDIUM MIXER BLADE

For one to two gallons, I prefer a helix mixer designed for 1 gallon buckets. It’s cheaper than a metal blade but it can really mix. As long as you don’t grind the plastic blades against buckets, these economical blades should last for years and also work well for jobs such as mixing plaster. They also have blades for 1 quart and 5 gallons, and these plastic blades are generally more economical than metal mixing blades.

Helix 1 Gallon Mixer Blade
$8.25 at Amazon

The Jiffy ES Mixer Blade for 2 to 10 gallon buckets of glaze.

LARGE MIXER BLADE

For 5 or 10 gallon buckets, the Jiffy ES mixer blade is the way to go. It has a 20 1/2” long, 3/8” shaft and the head is 3 3/4” wide. It’s designed for 2 to 5 gallon buckets but it will mix up to 10 gallons as long as you have a strong enough drill (usually a corded drill or a higher powered cordless drill)

Jiffy ES Mixer Blade
$49 at Amazon

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Scales and Accessories

A scale is a must-have for mixing glazes. An accurate, durable scale is a great investment. My favorite is the Oxo 11 Pound Scale. Click here to read a complete guide to scales for ceramic glaze mixing.

The Oxo 11 Pound / 5 KG Scale is great for home or studio use.

The Oxo 11 Pound Scale is designed for kitchen use but it’s a just as useful in the studio. It runs on 4 AAA batteries, and is accurate to 1/8 ounce or 1 gram. A great feature is the pull-out, light up display that allows you to use the scale with larger bowls. The scale has four buttons: a lb/kg toggle, light switch, zero button, and power. The top stainless steel platform can also be removed for cleaning. This scale can accommodate up to 11 pounds or almost 5 kilograms at a time. It’s an incredible amount of features in a scale that typically costs about $45.

Oxo 11 Pound Scale
$45

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Metal Scoops

A quality metal scoop makes working with dry materials so much easier. In a pinch, I’ve repurposed small yogurt containers as scoops, but a durable, long-lasting metal scoop is better. For large storage bins or bags, you might get a scoop for each material. Or if you have a collection of 2 to 4 different sizes, you can get through most glaze batches without contaminating between materials, and then wash the scoops after glazing. For really strong ingredients such as red iron oxide, I leave small scoops in each bin so I don’t have to clean the scoops each time I use them.

Metal Scoops
5 ounce: $9.56
12 ounce: $11.76

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Wrap-Up

This post has listed my favorite tools and accessories for use when mixing glaze, including drills, immersion blenders, sieves and strainers, dust protection, mixer blades, and scales. It may seem like a lot of stuff, but each tool has it’s role to play in the glaze-mixing process. If you are new to mixing glaze, start with the basics such as a scale, dust-protection and maybe just a wooden spoon, and go from there. You can always add tools as needed.

What are your favorite tools to use when mixing glaze? Let us know in the comments.

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The Best Scales for Ceramic Studios and Workshops 2025

A scale for a studio or workshop is a heavily-used tool that needs to be accurate, easy to use, and durable. These days, you can get a great scale without spending a lot of money. This post will cover affordable but durable scales that get the job done and hold up under the heavy use of an academic or community ceramic studio, but they are also great options for a personal studio.

These scales have been tested and used in ceramic studios for measuring glaze materials, or weighing clay, plaster, water, and packed boxes for shipping. The ratings are based on personal experience and observations of scales in use in numerous academic and community ceramic studios.

An older model of the OXO 11 Pound Food Scale purchased around 2018, still going strong. It’s shown here with the Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl and a metal scoop.

The OXO 11 Pound Scale has a removable, metal top and a light up display.

TOP PICK: OXO 11 Pound Food Scale

The OXO 11 Pound Food Scale is the top pick for a scale in a ceramics or art studio. With accuracy to 1 gram, this scale has a large enough capacity for smaller batches of glaze or plaster-mixing needs. It’s made for home kitchen use but is super tough and has thoughtful design features such as a pull-out, light-up display. It runs on 4 AAA batteries, and is accurate to 1/8 ounce or 1 gram. It is simply incredible that a scale under $55 is this accurate. For similar or more accurate scales (options like this reviewed below) you’ll easily pay $100 or more.

The pull-out, light-up display on the OXO 11 lb capacity scale (Shop at Amazon)

The scale has two buttons: lb/kg toggle, and power / zero. It’s simple and intuitive, and the pull-out display helps if you are using wide bowls. The top stainless steel platform can also be removed for cleaning.

This scale can accommodate up to 11 pounds or almost 5 kilograms at a time. The display will help you know when you’re reaching capacity by displaying more bars on the right-hand side. When mixing glaze, the 5,000 gram capacity is definitely enough. But if you work with larger amounts of material, a higher-capacity scale is reviewed below.

Prior to working with the OXO 11 Pound Scale, I only wanted to use more professional scales with 0.1 gram accuracy. But this is an affordable, durable, well built, and most importantly, accurate scale. The 1 gram accuracy is exact enough for most purposes, and it will survive many years of use in any studio. I liked this scale so much that I bought the smaller OXO 5 Pound Food Scale for use at home in the kitchen.

A note on 1 gram accuracy: For smaller glaze batches, this may not be accurate enough. For example, if you are trying to measure 10 grams of a material for a 500 gram batch of glaze, being off by one gram might change your results. But as you mix larger batches (typically 3,000 grams of dry materials is about 1 gallon of wet glaze) the 1 gram accuracy is enough. It’s a trade off in price versus accuracy. If you need 0.1 gram accuracy, more accurate scales are reviewed below.

OXO 11 lb Scale, typically $55
OXO 5 lb Scale, typically $32
Accurate to 1 gram

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Table of Contents

• Top Pick: OXO 11 Pound Food Scale

• Budget Pick: Accuteck All-In-One 50 lb Scale

• Upgrade pick: MyWeigh iBalance 5500

• Heavy Duty / Large Pick: MyWeigh HD-300 Shipping Scale and Accuteck Heavy Duty Scale

• Manual Scale Pick: LEM Stainless Steel Scale

• Other Scale Options

• Scale Accessories

• Summary

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Budget Pick: Accuteck All-in-One Digital Scale

The Accuteck All-In-One Digital Scale

The Accuteck All-In-One 50lb Digital Scale (Shop at Amazon) is a great budget option. It can weigh up to 50lbs of material, is well-built, and is very affordable—usually priced under $20. It has been a go-to budget scale option for almost 10 years now. It’s not the most accurate, but is great for weighing clay or other general purpose needs.

This scale runs on 3 AAA batteries or an optional 5V plug-in adapter. It is accurate to 0.2 ounce, or about 2 grams. It is definitely not as accurate as our top pick, but if you need something for the occasional glaze batch, it will be ok. It is also great to keep on the wedging table for measuring pieces of clay. If used on a wedging table, it’s not a bad idea to put it in a ziploc bag to keep it clean.

When I originally purchased this, I didn’t expect it to be so well built and have been extremely happy with the purchase. In a world full of low-quality generics and knock offs, I would definitely recommend this scale if you are on a budget. The only drawback is that it is only accurate to about 2 grams. This scale wouldn’t be very accurate if you were measuring small quantities of glaze materials.

Accuteck 50lb Digital Scale, typically $19.99
Accurate to around 2 grams

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Upgrade Pick: MyWeigh iBalance 5500

The MyWeigh iBalance 5500 scale is accurate to 0.1 grams and has a 5500 gram / 12 lb capacity.

The MyWeigh iBalance 5500 (Shop at Amazon) is a great upgrade pick for a studio scale. It’s accurate to 0.1 grams while maintaining a large capacity of 5500 grams or about 12 pounds. It has a stainless steel top, optional AC power adapter, simple and intuitive buttons, and a 3 year warranty. The four feet can be independently leveled.

It’s a workhorse for glaze mixing that allows you to do large batches, or fine tune a small amount of material to a high degree of accuracy. You’ll pay more for this specifity — around $250 at the time of this post — but if you need the range from a few grams to larger amounts, this scale will deliver. There are other models in the MyWeigh iBalance line too, ranging up to 11,000 gram capacity.

MyWeigh iBalance 5500, $249
Accurate to 0.1 grams

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Heavy Duty Picks

You may need a few different scales for all your needs in the studio. If you weigh and ship large boxes or mix plaster, a wider heavy duty scale is what you need. The go to for this category used to be the Rubbermaid Scale, but a few years back that was changed to only be accurate to about 1/2 a lb while still costing over $200.

Previously, this guide recommended the MyWeigh HD-300 Shipping Scale. It’s a great scale and while it still seems to be available a few place, it is harder to find. It’s around $100 and is very sturdy and should last a lifetime.

This guide is now also recommending the cheaper Accuteck Heavy Duty Scale. At only $42 it is quite affordable and while it is used in many studios, it doesn’t have the overbuilt quality of the MyWeigh HD-300, so be sure to treat it carefully.

The Accuteck Heavy Duty Scale features a metal top while still maintaining a thin build.

Accuteck Heavy Duty Scale

The Accuteck Heavy Duty 440 lb Shipping Scale (shop at Amazon) is a great deal at $42, and will provide a scale that can weigh large boxes, plaster, buckets of water, or large amounts of clay or glaze materials. It runs on 4 AAA batteries or a 9V plug, which is included.

It is accurate to 50 grams or 0.05 lbs, which is quite good for a scale of this size. Just don’t use it for small batches of clay or glaze tests.

It is not the strongest build, there are tradeoffs for getting something this cheap, but it will serve you well if you treat it carefully. It is thinner and takes up less space than the MyWeigh HD-300 reviewed below, so that may be a plus if you need something like this but have limited space.

Accuteck Heavy Duty Scale, $42
Accurate to 50 grams

The MyWeigh HD-300 Shipping Scale is a workhorse of a scale with a beefy build quality.

MyWeigh HD-300 Shipping Scale

The MyWeigh HD-300 Heavy Duty Shipping Scale (shop at Amazon) is the top pick for a shipping scale, but it’s also accurate enough for large batches of plaster, concrete, or other studio materials. It can measure up to 300 pounds with an accuracy of 0.1 lbs or to within about 2 ounces. It has a steel top and a remote display on a six foot cord, so you can easily get the weight of even the largest package. It’s powered by 4 AA batteries or an optional AC power adapter. It also has a built-in USB port, if you want to set up communication with printers or other devices. Finally, it has adjustable feet and easy to clean surfaces. This is a great heavy duty scale that comes in around $130. There are plenty of cheaper shipping scales, but if you read online reviews closely, you’ll see that they fail or are inaccurate, while this scale is built too withstand the test of time.

MyWeigh HD-300 Heavy Duty Shipping Scale, 300lb limit, $130
Accurate to 0.1 lbs or about 50 grams

For a complete look at Heavy Duty Scales, click here.

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Manual Scale Pick: LEM Stainless Steel Scale

The LEM Stainless Steel Scale.

The LEM Stainless Steel Scale is a great option for weighing wet clay, plaster, or as a shipping scale. It has a 10” x 8” steel platform, and can weigh up to 44 lbs / 20 kg with an accuracy of 2 ounces or around 50 grams. It’s not accurate enough for mixing glazes, but for just about everything else, this is a great option that is affordable, durable and doesn’t need any batteries or plugs. Sometimes it’s good to keep it simple and for $50, you can’t go wrong with this scale.

LEM Stainless Steel Manual Scale, $50
Accurate to 50 grams

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Other Scale Options

Rubbermaid Commercial 150lb Scale

Rubbermaid Commercial 150lb Digital Scale

The Rubbermaid Commercial 150 Pound Scale is another option for a rugged scale that can measure packages, plaster, or any type of material.

It has a wide metal platform, and the display can be mounted on the wall or pulled to the side with a 9 foot cord. The scale has a capacity of 150 pounds or 68 kilograms, and runs on a 9V battery or option AC adapter.

The drawback of this scale is that it is only accurate to about 1/2 pound. Previous models of this scale were more accurate to around 2/10 of a pound, so it is disappointing that Rubbermaid has let the quality drop. There are also complaints online about this unit, specifically the controller, breaking after a few months of use. That hasn’t been my experience though, so I would still recommend this with the caveat that you treat the control / display panel carefully. It’s priced about the same as the MyWeigh shipping scale, or around $130.

Rubbermaid Commercial 150 lb Digital Scale, $173
Accurate to 0.5 lbs

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The Ohaus CX1201 Scale, 1200 gram capacity with 0.1 gram accuracy.

Ohaus Digital Scale

Ohaus is one of the most trusted names in scales, and the the Ohaus Portable Balance CX1201 is accurate to 0.1 grams with a capacity of 1200 grams or about 2.6 pounds. It costs almot $150 and runs on 3 AA batteries or an optional plug.

I prefer the larger capacity of the MyWeigh 5500, but this scale has a balance of accuracy, cost, and quality that is hard to beat. If you regularly measure smaller batches of glaze and need 0.1 gram accuracy, this scale will deliver.

Ohaus Portable Balance CX1201, $149
Accurate to 0.1 gram

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Triple Beam Mechanical Scales

The Ohaus Triple Pro Scale

Not as common now, but these used to be the standard for glaze labs. Now, almost everyone has switched to digital scales. I definitely have. But, if you want to go old school or want to keep it simple and not worry about batteries or breakdowns, a triple-beam scale is the way to go. They are extremely accurate, long-lasting, and durable. It just takes a bit longer to get a measurement.

There are a variety of generics out there, and Ohaus makes a few models of triple beam scales. The basic model will weigh up to 610 grams and retails for $139. That’s not much weight, but it is accurate to 0.1 grams.

For a larger capacity, look at the Ohaus Triple Pro Mechanical Triple Beam with a 2610 gram capacity that is accurate to 0.1 grams. The scale has a basic capacity of 610 grams, but you can add counterweights to increase the capacity to 2610 grams. If you want to invest in a long-term piece of equipment, this is the kind of tool you could pass down to your grandchildren. It retails for $206.

The generic brand QWORK makes a very similar scale with a 2610 gram capacity and 0.1 gram accuracy for just $60. It has a lower build quality than the Ohaus, but it is significantly cheaper.

Ohaus Triple Pro Scale, 2610 gram capacity, $206
Accurate to 0.1 grams

Ohaus 610 Gram Scale, $139
Accurate to 0.1 grams

QWORK Triple Beam, 2610 gram capacity, $60
Accurate to 0.1 gram

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Favorite Scale Accessories

A scale scoop is great for weighing dry materials.

Scale Scoop Bowl

A plastic bowl with a pouring spout, such as a scale scoop, is my favorite bowl to use on a scale. They do cost extra, but the upgrade might be worth it for your studio. Usually around 10 inches wide with a pouring spout, you can get quite a bit of dry material piled up in this bowl. Of course, you can use any sort of bowl to measure dry ingredients, but this one just seems to be ideal for scales and it’s the one I reach for first when I’m mixing glazes.

If you see the Ohaus Maxi-Scoop, that’s a great option.

Another option is the Penn Scale Scoop, which is 10 inches wide at the rim, 2.75 inches tall, and has a 6 inch wide base. It’s listed at $33.

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Metal Scoops

Metal scoops are the easiest way to pick up glaze materials, plaster, or any dry material. They are also long lasting and easy to clean. A variety of sizes works, or some people like to keep an individual scoop in each bucket of material.

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Ohaus Footed Scoop Bowl

The Ohaus Footed Scoop Bowl.

The Ohaus Footed Scoop is another great option for mixing dry materials. It doesn’t hold as much material as the Maxi-Scoop, but the design of this bowl is much easier to pour.

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Summary

This post has covered a variety of scale options suitable for a ceramics, sculpture, or art studio. Many of these will work at home too. My top pick is the OXO 11 Pound Scale for it’s combination of accuracy, durability, and price. But there are a variety of other options too, along with my favorite accessories for mixing glaze and other materials.

What scale do you use in your studio? Let us know in the comments.

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How To Screen A Glaze with a Brush Head

If you are mixing ceramic and pottery glazes from scratch, it’s always best to screen your glaze. This helps remove any lumps, granular material, and helps disperse materials that like to clump together.

The Dr. Brush Brill Brush comes with 3 brush heads and an extender.

There are specific tools for screening glaze, such as a manual Talisman Rotary Sieve. The Talisman Sieve is great, but it can be bulky and expensive ($200 or more). If you already own a power drill, another option is to get one or two bucket sieves along with a drill brush head.

But it can be a chore to push all the glaze through with a spatula or brush. That’s where a drill brush attachment can really speed things up.

A drill brush is a simple tool that will fit in just about any electric drill, and with a bit holder / extender, you have plenty of room to use with a bucket sieve.

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The three brush heads and extender in the Dr. Brush package.

Dr. Brush Drill Brush Attachment

For this post, I tested a Dr. Brush Drill Brush attachment with an extender, which is available for $10 and also is called the Holikme 4Pack Drill Brush. The brush heads themselves are great—semi-stiff bristles in three sizes: flat small, flat large, and a rounded brush head.

The head of the extender broke immediately upon first use. If ordering the Dr. Brush, you should plan to also get another bit extender.

As good as the brush heads were, unfortunately the extender on this set broke immediately upon first use. I happened to have another bit holder so I popped that on and I was good to go.

Once I had the brush head attached to my drill, it was a speedy process to quickly move the glaze through the screen. I’m not sure why I spent so many years with a spatula, when a drill brush is so much faster.

After use, the drill brush was quick to clean up with water.

In the video below, you can see how fast the drill brush can help process a whole sieve-full of glaze. There’s a how to and more info below as well.

How to Use a Drill Brush Head

Equipment needed:

• Bucket Sieve (80 mesh recommended for glazes, 40 mesh can work as a prescreen. Available at specialty ceramic supply stores)

• 5 gallon Buckets

• Drill (read our review of corded or cordless drills)

• Brush Head

• Optional: A bit holder / extender

Step 1

Mix your glaze. It’s best to mix all the dry ingredients first before adding to water. Some glaze ingredients (such as bentonite) like to clump together.

Step 2

Stir and mix glaze. A drill head can help

Step 3

Pour glaze into your bucket with the sieve. Put brush head on your drill and run gently against the screen.

Step 4

Repeat until all the glaze is sieved.

For more info:

Read our complete guide to mixing a ceramic glaze from scratch

Check out our guide to glaze mixing accessories

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How To Mix a Ceramic Glaze From Scratch

A red iron oxide glaze in the process of being run through a Talisman Glaze Sieve.

This post is an overview of how to mix a ceramic glaze from dry ingredients, including the tools, techniques and procedures to get you started.

Whether you buy a pre-mixed dry glaze or weigh each ingredient, there are a lot of advantages to mixing your own glaze:

• Save money: Mixing glazes in your studio is always cheaper, sometimes as much as 80 to 90 percent cheaper than bottled glaze.

• Customize: Learn how to modify slips and glazes to suit your kiln and clay bodies.

• Learn glaze chemistry: Even a bit of info can help you get the results you want.

A variety of our favorite glaze recipes are posted here, and there are lots of websites and books with glaze recipes. There are endless amounts of glaze recipes, so if you are new to this, just start with one basic one such as a glossy clear. There are also pre-mixed, dry glazes which are effective and still save some money over buying bottled glazes.

Keep reading for the complete how to instructions.

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Table of Contents

• Glaze Mixing Tools and Accessories

• How To Mix Glazes From Scratch

• Testing and Storing Glazes

• Summary

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Glaze Mixing Tools and Accessories

Here’s what you need to mix glaze in your studio:

• Scale that can measure to 1 gram accuracy or better (Read our scale review here)

• Dust mask, preferably a respirator

• Bowl or pan for the scale (Read our glaze accessories recommendations here)

• Electric drill with mixing attachments, or a large whisk

  (Read our review of cordless drills or corded drills here)

• Fine Sieve (80 mesh) from a ceramic supply store, and a coarse sieve, from a supermarket or hardware store

• Buckets for mixing and storing glaze, 1 gallon to 10 gallon or larger depending on your needs

• Large plastic scraper, for cleaning sides of buckets

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How To Mix Glazes From Scratch

1. Review recipe.

   Check to make sure you have enough of each ingredient. It can be helpful to calculate and write out the amount of each material, to be used as a checklist.

2. Prepare work area

   Put on a dust mask, clean your scale and work area. Get your materials, buckets, and scoops together.

3. Zero scale

   Place your measuring pan or bowl on the scale and turn it on. If needed, press the tare button so that the scale is zeroed out.

4. Weigh ingredients

   Weigh each ingredient (this is where your checklist is handy) and put them in a dry bowl or bucket. After measuring all the ingredients, mix the dry ingredients together. Some glaze ingredients, such as bentonite, are prone to clumping so it is important to mix everything dry first.

5. Add to water and mix

   Add the mixed glaze materials to water and mix until it is thick cream or buttermilk consistency. An electric drill with a proper mixing blade greatly speeds up this process. A large plastic scraper will dislodge material from the side of the bucket. Once all the dry ingredients have been mixed with water, you can remove your mask if desired.

   Note: it’s best to add glaze materials to water. If you add water to a bucket of dry materials, it’s hard to get everything in the bottom corners mixed.

6. Sieve and homogenize

   Prepare another clean bucket with a sieve, preferably a fine 80 mesh sieve. Run the glaze through the sieve this first time, to break up any clumps. A brush can help push material through the sieve, or a Talisman Glaze Sieve is a tool made specifically for mixing glaze into 5 or 10 gallon buckets.

   Then, clean the bucket where you will be storing the glaze. Run the glaze through the sieve a second time into this clean bucket.

7. Test glaze consistency

   Glazes are typically mixed to a specific gravity, which measures the amount of dissolved solids in the water. Usually glazes are around 1.50, which means 50 parts dissolved solids to 100 parts water. Keep records and mix the glaze to a consistency that works for you.

   Specific gravity can be measured with a specialized (but fragile) hydrometer, or you can use a graduated cylinder on your scale. With your cylinder zeroed out on the scale, pour in 100ml of the mixed glaze and check the weight. Add water as needed, and mix.

8. Label and store

   Glaze containers and lids should be labeled with the name, temperature, and any other information that will help you. Laminated, waterproof labels are best but packing tape can also protect a label for some time.

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Testing and Storing Glazes

Testing Glaze

It is helping to make a test tile of a glaze, on each clay body you use. Vertical test tiles such as tubes from an extruder are best, as they show how a glaze will “move” with gravity. Dip your test tile with one and two dips to show how different thicknesses of glaze affect the color.

Some studios choose to make a test tile with each batch of glaze. But if you are careful to mix the glaze accurately to a similar specific gravity, and your firings are repeatable, you should get roughly the same glaze results each time. There are no guarantees with glaze though. It is important to keep records, both in a glaze book and a kiln log, in order to get standardized results. But, glaze materials do change over time so as necessary you can make new test tiles.

Storing glazes

Glazes can be stored in sealed containers or buckets almost indefinitely. Most glaze ingredients are inorganic and will not rot. But some ingredients, such as bone ash, can cause some rotting smells. To avoid this, make sure the glaze is mixed with some frequency. If the odor persists, you can add a trace amount of copper to any glaze (even white glazes!) without affecting the color. Copper is an anti-fungal and can cut down or eliminate odor. Read our post on that here.

Remixing glaze

As they are used, glazes do lose some moisture to evaporation and bisqueware can suck extra water out of the glaze mix. It can be helpful to mix and then do a quick visual check of the glaze. If necessary, you can re-check the specific gravity and add water. If a glaze seems thick or is glopping onto your pieces, it’s definitely time to check it and probably add water.

In addition, when I mix glaze, I will usually run all the old and new glaze through a sieve. Small bits of bisque and other contaminants can fall into a glaze bucket. When I’m using it, I want to know what I’ve got in that bucket. It does take extra work but having a double-sieved, homogenized glaze will result more even glaze application and hopefully, better results.

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Summary

This post has covered a basic overview of mixing glazes from scratch. It covered the tools, techniques, and a few helpful hints to mix and store glazes. If you can follow a recipe, you can mix glaze. There is an overwhelming amount of glaze info out there, but if you start with just one basic recipe and grow from there, you will be a glaze master in no time and you will be able to customize and mix glazes to suit your own needs.

If you are looking for more info on mixing glazes, the glaze books by John Britt are some of the best resources.

The Complete Guide to Mid-Range Glazes

Buy at Bookshop.org

Buy at Amazon

The Complete Guide to High-Fire Glazes

Buy at Bookshop.org

Buy at Amazon

Questions or comments? Let us know in the comments.

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The Best Corded Drills for Art Studios and Workshops

A corded drill is always worth having in a studio or home workshop. They are powerful, durable, and affordable. The trade off is that you have to deal with a cord. But if you are working near a power source and don’t mind the cord, there is nothing better and more powerful. This post will review a few recommended drills, cover the advantages and disadvantages of a corded drill, and share some tips on how to use drills for mixing glazes and other studio tasks. If you are looking for a cordless drill, check out our review here.

TOP PICK: DeWalt DWD 115K 3/8” Variable Speed Drill

The DeWalt DWD 115K Drill is my top pick for a corded drill. It’s what I use — my DWD 115 from 2008 is still going strong after more than a decade of heavy use. The newest model, the 115K, is virtually unchanged from previous models. Why mess with a classic? The drill is on the heavy side, weighing just over 4 lbs, but it is solid, evenly balanced, has a ton of torque, and will do almost everything you need it to do in a very affordable package. It’s especially great for drilling and using with mixing blades. It’s not a contractor-grade jobsite drill, but for the rest of us, this is the best corded drill. A full review of this drill is below

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Table of Contents

• Top Pick: DeWalt DWD 115K 3/8” Drill

• Runner Up: Metabo HPT 3/8” Drill

• Third Pick: Bosch 3/8” Drill

• Other Corded Drill Options

• Favorite Mixing Blades and Drill Accessories

• Corded vs Cordless Drills: Advantages and Disadvantages

• Background and Research

• Summary

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Top Pick: DeWalt DWD 115K 3/8” Drill

The DeWalt DWD 115K 3/8” Drill with variable speed and keyless chuck.

The DeWalt DWD115k 3/8” Drill is my top pick for a corded drill and it’s far and away the best drill in this category and price among any brand. It is durable, powerful, and affordable. I’ve used a DWD115 model for more than a decade, and it is held up under heavy use. I expect my drill to last for decades longer! The DeWalt 115 model is a classic and the newest model is little changed. The 115K is not a lightweight drill, weighing 4.1 lbs, but it feels evenly balanced and despite the weight is comfortable to use. It has a convenient flip-switch right above the pistol-trigger, to toggle between forward and reverse without moving your hand. It has a well-built keyless metal chuck, but there is a model with a keyed chuck, if that is your preference.

My drill: a DeWalt 115 Drill that is still looking good after more than a decade of use. This model of drill is a classic.

The drill doesn’t come with a very long cord, so you’ll most likely need a quality extension cord to put this into use. You’ll also need to get drill bits and mixer blades, which are covered farther down in this post.

I used to work in a busy academic studio where one of these DeWalt drills was used for mixing glazes. The DeWalt endured all sorts of misuse at the hands of the students (glaze splashes, dirty hands, etc.) and it kept going strong.

If a corded drill is what you need, this is the drill to get. It is tough, powerful, and well-built. If it’s maintained, it might be the only corded drill you ever buy.

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Second Pick: Metabo HPT 3/8” Drill

The Metabo HPT 3/8” Drill

The DeWalt DWD115K is such a leader in this category that it’s hard to recommend other drills. But the Metabo HPT 3/8” Drill is a distant second.

Metabo is a rebranded version of Hitachi Power Tools (hence, the HPT in the name) and it has many great features: an all-metal keyless chuck, decent amount of power, good ergonomics, and an affordable price of around $50. You can definitely get a lot more features if you step up to a 1/2” drill and are willing to spend $100 or more, but this drill is a good compromise.

Close up of the variable-speed dial on the trigger. It’s a funky, awkward design.

Hitachi made quality, long-lasting tools and the rebranded Metabo should be the same. But it’s just been since the Fall of 2018 that the Metabo rebrand took place so the jury may still be out on what changes, if any, happened with the name change.

Compared to the top pick, you get a similar all-metal keyless chuck, almost as much power (7.0 amps as opposed to 8.0) and a drill that is 1 pound lighter, at just over 3 lbs. I will happily trade a bit of power for a lighter drill that is comfortable to use over time.

The trade off comes in the trigger. It’s got a variable-speed dial built right into the trigger, which is a very funky design. And flipping between forward and reverse is not as easy with just one hand as the on the DeWalt.

This drill will run you about $15-20 less than the DeWalt and occasionally, Amazon has refurbished or “renewed” versions of this drill for $25. You can’t beat that for a decent drill, and if money is the bottom line, this is a good drill.

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Third Pick: Bosch 1006VSR 3/8” Drill

The Bosch 1006VSR 3/8” Drill.

The third pick is the Bosch 1006VSR 3/8” variable-speed, corded drill. Bosch makes high-quality, well-respected products and this is a good drill. It’s just not as good as our top pick, but it’s also $10-15 cheaper. Rather than an all-metal chuck, it has a metal chuck with a plastic collar. In my experience, these plastic collars or plastic chucks just don’t stand the test of time but when I make this consideration I’m thinking about heavy use over 5 or 10 years in a communal studio, where the drill is getting used on an hourly basis for mixing glazes. Your use may vary.

Aside from the partially-plastic chuck, this drill has 6.3 amps (as opposed to 8 on the DeWalt), has a large, two-finger trigger, and a button to switch between forward and reverse. The button is not as ergonomic as the DeWalt, but it does stay locked in place.

The drill weighs 4 lbs, about the same as the DeWalt but 1 lb more than the Metabo. Aside from that, it’s a standard, well-built drill that should handle most things needed in a studio or at home.

As stated before, the DeWalt is the clear market leader for this type of drill. But if I was choosing between the second pick and the Bosch, I would evaluate my trust in the Bosch name, how I felt about an all-metal chuck versus this plastic-collar chuck, and the difference in the weight of the drills. The Bosch was almost my second pick but I don’t have as much confidence in the chuck.

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Other Corded Drill Options

As with any electronic tool or gadget, there’s an innumerable amount of options and designs from both name-brand and generic makers. Hopefully the three drills above will give you a starting point. But there are some other drills to consider, which I’ll cover briefly.

The first drill I ever bought was a Craftsman, and the Craftsman 7 amp 3/8” drill is very similar to the model I had and used for almost 10 years. Generally, I’m a fan of Craftsman products (Must be all those years of hanging out in my grandfather’s woodshop with his Craftsman tools) and this drill is ok. But with a plastic chuck? I don’t know. It does have a toggle forward/reverse switch like the DeWalt, and a “lock on” switch for continuous use. But it’s just not as good as our top picks.

The Porter Cable 6-amp, 3/8” drill looks quite similar to the Craftsman model in make and build, including a plastic chuck and a toggle forward/reverse switch, and the “lock on” button on the handle. It’s another old-school brand that I want to trust, but a drill like this makes me wonder if it is coasting on its history and basically rebranding a generic drill.

The Black and Decker 6 amp 3/8” Drill is in many ways similar to the drills above, but it has a plastic chuck. Online reviewers noted that there was some “play” in the chuck if they didn’t get the bit set just right. I mention this drill here as a comparison. Generally, I don’t ever buy Black and Decker tools as I find that they are cheaply made and do not last over the long haul.

More Powerful / Larger Drills

So far, every drill I’ve mentioned has a 3/8” opening in the chuck. If you want a step up in power or size, there are some great 1/2” models that don’t cost too much more than our top pick.

Dewalt has a 7.8 amp, 1/2” drill with a keyed chuck that runs about $100, or a more powerful 10 amp, 1/2” drill for about $120. These are both great drills with the same level of DeWalt quality throughout.

Milwaukee also has an 8 amp 1/2” drill with a keyed chuck for around $120 that is well built, powerful, and long lasting.

If you are really having a hard time deciding what kind of drill you need, the best thing is to go to a store and handle them and see what feels good to you. If the store will let you try drilling something, then you’ll really know what is the best drill for you.

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Mixing Blades and Accessories for Your Drill

With your drill, you’ll need bits, screws, and mixer blades to put it to work. Here’s what I recommend:

DRILL BITS AND SCREWS

Any quality brand of screws and drill bits should get the job done. But just like drills, there are tons of options out there. Your local hardware store might be the easiest way to see what you need in person, but for shopping online, here are some links:

Drill bits: This basic 14-piece set from DeWalt is a great place to start.

Screwdriver set and bits: This set from DeWalt covers all the basics.

Hollow Core Diamond Drill Bits from Neiko

DIAMOND BITS

Diamond bits really help if you are working with glass, tile, hard plastic, or ceramic. For glazed ceramics, diamond bits are your only option for cleanly drilling a hole.

This 5 piece set of diamond-dusted, hollow core bits from Neiko has decent quality despite being less than $10. It will cut holes right through bisqueware (make sure to do it under running water) and it will also work on glazed ware. Just be slow and steady when using these on glazed ware, and use proper protection such as goggles.

The small Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade

SMALL MIXER BLADE

To mix pint jars and small cups, the Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade is just the right size. It’s 10 1/4” long with a 1 1/4” head.

Helix mixer blade for 1 to 2 gallon buckets

MEDIUM MIXER BLADE

For one to two gallons, I prefer a helix mixer designed for 1 gallon buckets. It’s cheaper than a metal blade but it can really mix. As long as you don’t grind the plastic blades against buckets, these economical blades should last for years and also work well for jobs such as mixing plaster.

Jiffy ES Mixer Blade closeup.

LARGE MIXER BLADE

For 5 or 10 gallon buckets, the Jiffy ES mixer blade is the way to go. It has a 20 1/2” long, 3/8” shaft and the head is 3 3/4” wide.

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Corded vs. Cordless Drills

A corded and cordless drill each have their advantages and disadvantages. I like to have both but most people get by with just one drill. If you are looking for a cordless drill, check out our cordless drill recommendations here. Here’s some things to consider when choosing a drill:

Advantages of a Corded Drill

• Affordable: Cheaper and more powerful than a cordless drill.

• More power: You’ll get a stronger motor and heavier build quality on a corded drill than a cordless drill at similar prices.

• Instant torque: You don’t have to wait for a corded drill to get up to speed.

• No stopping to change or recharge batteries.

• No future expense of replacing batteries as they wear out.

• Less wasteful: A corded drill won’t result in worn-out batteries that need to be recycled or disposed.

Disadvantages of a Corded Drill

• A corded drill limits you to being plugged in to a power source or working with an extension cord.

• Usually Heavier: The extra weight may not work for everyone. I’m thinking of shared ceramic studios with students of all ages. A lighter cordless drill is more accommodating for all.

• For certain projects, such as drilling screws, corded drills are almost too powerful. Crazy, huh? Cordless drills are generally weaker and you’re not as likely to over-torque or damage screws, etc. A gentle touch on any corded, variable-speed drill should work, but if you have a heavy trigger finger, get a less powerful drill. Or — this is another reason to have both types of drill. A corded drill is great for drilling and using with mixing blades, while a weaker cordless drill is perfect for driving screws.

Considerations for all drills

• Keyless or keyed chucks? Generally, a keyed chuck can be locked in super tight, but you’ll need to use (and not lose) the key. Keyless chucks are more convenient but can wear out

• How often do you use the drill? If it’s infrequent, you may find that a cordless drill always has a dead battery when you need to use it.

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BACKGROUND

I have used tons of different drills over the years, and this review is based on that experience along with looking at many recent reviews of corded drill reviews and every other source I could find, include user reviews on Amazon and checking out models in person. In the studio, I like to use the best tools at the lowest price. What that means in practice is I avoid the super-cheap brands such as Black and Decker, or Ryobi, and will generally choose the base models of top quality brands such as Milwaukee, Bosch, and DeWalt. I totally understand the need for a powerful, $200+ drill for a construction job site. But in my experience, the entry-level drills are powerful enough for most uses. They work for me and I think they’ll work for you too.

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Wrap-Up

This post covered top picks for corded drills, as well as some useful tools and accessories. My top pick was the DeWalt DRD115K 3/8” drill. It’s a durable, powerful drill that is versatile, comfortable, and should work for most situations in a studio or home workshop. With this drill, I keep a variety of mixer blades, as well as drill bits, screwdriver bits, and hollow-core diamond bits.

A corded drill is a vital tool in the studio. What type of drill do you like to use? Let us know your favorite models and accessories in the comments.

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The Best Cordless Drills for Art Studios and Workshops

A good cordless drill is a must have in any studio. Between a corded and a cordless drill, I’ll always grab the cordless first. But with numerous options, it can be hard to know where to start in picking a drill. This post will review the best cordless drills for a ceramic or art studio, share my philosophy on how to shop for tools like this, and list a few favorite drill attachments for use in a ceramics studio.

TOP PICK: Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver

Before jumping into the complete post, the top pick is the Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver. It’s a compact, lightweight, and powerful drill that is not too expensive but has excellent build quality. It also has a comfortable grip and the M12 battery system makes it compatible with a huge variety of Milwaukee tools. It’s what I stock and use in my own studio, but the smaller size and light weight make this a drill that can be used by just about anybody.

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Table of Contents

• Top Pick: Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill

• Runner up: Dewalt 12V Brushless 3/8” Drill

• Third Pick: Bosch PS31 3/8” Drill or Bosch PS32 3/8” Brushless Drill

• Other Drill Options

• Favorite Mixer Blades and other attachments

• Cordless vs. Corded Drills

• Background and Research

• Wrap-Up

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Top Pick: Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver

The Milwaukee M12 3/8 Drill Driver

The Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver is my top pick for a cordless drill, and it’s the drill that I use and stock in my studio. It’s compact and lightweight, but with enough power to really mix a 5 gallon bucket of glaze and just enough power to mix a 10 gallon bucket. The build quality is excellent, and it includes variable speeds, a battery charge light indicator, and the keyless chuck makes it easy to change bits as needed. I use a variety of mixer blades including an ES Jiffy Blade, and this drill can go slow enough to mix a pint jar and is powerful enough to mix 5 or 10 gallon buckets of glaze.

The Milwaukee M12 3/8 Drill Driver Kit

This is the drill that I have stocked in academic and community studios, which are used by scores of students weekly. This drill holds up under those intense conditions. In educational spaces, these tools get used hard and are often subject to misuse, such as splashes of glazes. So far, this drill has survived everything but if it was damaged beyond repair, the basic drill without a battery is especially affordable and would be easy to replace. You can buy just the bare drill with no battery for around $55. The 2407-22 Kit, which includes a drill, charging station, 2 batteries, and bag, costs around $115 at the time of this review. Without a battery, this drill weighs 2.1 lbs.

Additionally, the M12 battery makes this an attractive option if you wanted to use any of the other 100+ Milwaukee tools in the M12 System, such as a jig saw, circular saw, or compact leaf blower.

For extra batteries, definitely get the official Milwaukee brand batters, such as this extended capacity option. Speaking from experience, the generic batteries I tried were completely dead after about 12 months of use.

The drawbacks of this model would be the relative lack of power. It’s not a super-powerful drill, especially for something like a construction job site, but it has enough juice to mix up to 10 gallon buckets of glaze, which is everything I need and might cover your needs too. For an art studio, whether home or educational, this is a great compact drill that does a lot and will last for years. That it has all of this in one of the cheaper models is also the reason why it’s my top pick.

Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver Kit

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Runner Up: Dewalt 12V Brushless 3/8” Drill/Driver

The DeWalt DCD701F2 Xtreme 12V Max Brushless 3/8 in. Cordless Drill/Driver

This is a very compact, powerful drill that does cost more than the top pick but comes with a more powerful and responsive brushless motor. Dewalt tools are always great quality and this one is no exception. Other reviewers love this drill, such as the Wirecutter, which named this their top pick for a small household drill. (And if you’d like to read an explainer on brushless motors, check out this article from Popular Mechanics.)

This kit includes the drill, two batteries, charging station, and a bag. Without the battery, this drill weighs 1.9 lbs. The DeWalt 12V Max battery system includes a variety of tools, including other drills, lights, and sensors, but not as many options as the Milwaukee M12 system.

The flat-bottomed battery that comes with this drill also allows it to stand up. With the Milwaukee, you’d have to order the extended capacity battery for that feature.

DeWalt makes some other entry-level drills that are cheaper than this drill and seem suitable for a studio, but they have very mixed reviews. This model does cost more but the brushless motor should provide more torque and hopefully last longer. The compact size of this drill makes it an attractive option for any studio, as space is always at a premium.

In the end, you have to decide if the extra money for this drill is worth it. It’s a great option and one that I heartily recommend.

DeWalt DCD701F2 12V Brushless 3/8” Drill/Driver

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Third Pick: Bosch PS31 or PS32 3/8” Drill/Drivers

The third pick is two different Bosch drills that match many of the specifications of the top two picks. The cheaper PS31 model is similar to the Milwaukee M12, and the PS32 option has a brushless motor like the DeWalt. Both are great drills that will work well, depending on your needs and price range.

The Bosch PS31 3/8 Drill kit with drill, two batteries, charger, and case.

Bosch PS31 3/8” Drill/Driver

This compact drill is similar in many ways to the top pick with a 3/8” inch chuck, variable speeds, and the kit comes with two small batteries. Without a battery, the drill weighs 2.1 lbs. This drill was picked by the Wirecutter as the runner up for their best household drill, and it generally has favorable reviews on Amazon and other sites. Some complain about the ergonomics, however, and an uneven balance. But Bosch tools are generally high quality and this drill will do everything you need to do. This is a great drill, but I prefer the Milwaukee for the wider variety of tool options that comes with the M12 system.

Bosch PS31 3/8” Drill/Driver Kit

Bosch PS32 3/8” Drill/Driver with Brushless Motor

The Bosch PS32 3/8 Brushless Drill Driver kit. Note that the motor area is slightly larger than the Bosch PS31 but the two drills have about the same weight.

The PS32 has many of the same specs and design as the PS31 but is a stepped-up model with a brushless motor that should provide more torque and longer battery life. Head to head, it’s a very similar to the DeWalt drill mentioned above, so choosing this comes down to design and other features. Without a battery, the bare drill weighs 2 lbs and the kit comes with two batteries, charging station, and bag. Personally, I would go with the DeWalt for an entry-level brushless drill but many people love Bosch tools. This PS32 drill was named as a top pick recently by Consumer Reports. It’s not my top pick, but it will do the job for you. Bosch doesn’t have as many tools that use the same batteries in their product line, so if you were looking to start an expandable set of studio tools that utilize the same batteries, you’d want to consider other manufacturers such as DeWalt or Milwaukee.

Bosch PS32 3/8” Drill/Driver with Brushless Motor

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Other Drill Options

The main thing I use drills for is mixing glazes. All the drills reviewed above will do a great job mixing 1 to 5 gallons of glaze, and they have enough power for a 10 gallon bucket of glaze. But if your studio is full of lots of 10 gallon buckets, you may want to get a more powerful cordless drill, or think about going with a corded drill. In general, these more powerful drills weigh more and the designs get more awkward. You’ll have to think through who is using your studio and if they are able to handle the size of the larger drills.

DeWalt 20V 1/2” Brushless Drill/Driver

For a more powerful cordless drill, the DeWalt 20V Max 1/2” Drill Driver Kit is really great. It’s a step up in power, and will accommodate larger mixing blades. It is quite a bit larger and heavier, weighing 3.4 lbs. This is 1.5 lbs heavier than the DeWalt model reviewed above, but with the heavier weight you will get a larger motor with more power. There’s even an option with bluetooth connectivity, which is mostly useful if you lose your drill or for jobsite inventory management.

Milwaukee M18 1/2” Brushless Drill Driver

The Milwaukee M18 1/2” model is also another powerful cordless drill. The kit clocks in at a lower price than its competitors, but that’s because the kit has just has one battery! So if you go this route, definitely factor in the cost of an extra battery. Battery aside, you’ll get a great drill that packs a punch in a well-built design. Without a battery, this drill weighs 2.5lbs, which is just a half pound more than the M12 model. Milwaukee has been able to squeeze more torque and power into a drill without much added weight.

Milwaukee M18 1/2” Brushless Drill/Driver

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Mixing Blades and Accessories for Your Drill

With your drill, you’ll need bits, screws, and mixer blades to put it to work. Here’s what I recommend:

DRILL BITS AND SCREWS

Any quality brand of screws and drill bits should get the job done. But just like drills, there are tons of options out there. Your local hardware store might be the easiest way to see what you need in person, but for shopping online, here are some links:

Drill bits: This basic 14-piece set from DeWalt is a great place to start.

Screwdriver set and bits: This basic set from DeWalt covers all the basics.

DIAMOND BITS

Hollow Core Diamond Drill Bits from Neiko

Diamond bits really help if you are working with glass, tile, hard plastic, or ceramic. For glazed ceramics, diamond bits are your only option for cleanly drilling a hole.

This 5 piece set of diamond-dusted, hollow core bits from Neiko has decent quality despite being less than $10. It will cut holes right through bisqueware (make sure to do it under running water) and it will also work on glazed ware. Just be slow and steady when using these on glazed ware, and use proper protection such as goggles.

SMALL MIXER BLADE

To mix pint jars and small cups, the Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade is just the right size. It’s 10 1/4” long with a 1 1/4” head.

The small Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade

MEDIUM MIXER BLADE

For one to two gallons, I prefer a helix mixer designed for 1 gallon buckets. It’s cheaper than a metal blade but it can really mix. As long as you don’t grind the plastic blades against buckets, these economical blades should last for years and also work well for jobs such as mixing plaster.

Helix mixer blade for 1 to 2 gallon buckets

LARGE MIXER BLADE

For 5 or 10 gallon buckets, the Jiffy ES mixer blade is the way to go. It has a 20 1/2” long, 3/8” shaft and the head is 3 3/4” wide.

Jiffy ES Mixer Blade closeup.

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Cordless Vs Corded Drills

A corded and cordless drill each have their advantages and disadvantages. I like to have both but most people could get by with just one. If you are looking for a corded drill, check out our recommendations here. Here’s some things to consider when choosing a drill:

Advantages of a Cordless Drill

• No cord! You’re free to take the drill anywhere. This is especially good for tight locations, or if it’s not easy to access a power source.

• Usually lighter: Cordless drills are designed to be carried around. The models reviewed here are compact and light, which makes these drills more easier to use for everyone.

• Good for drilling, but especially good as screwdrivers.

Disadvantages of a Cordless Drill

• More expensive: The batteries and charging station add a cost that you don’t have with corded drills.

• Less power: Not as much power as a corded drill, and the power may wane as the battery loses charge.

• Less torque: This may be good in some cases, such as for use as a screwdriver. But cordless drills are not as good for loosening stuck bolts, or for situations where lots of power or torque are needed.

• You will need to stop to change or recharge batteries.

• Future expense: batteries wear out and need to be replaced.

• More waste: Worn out batteries have to be recycled or disposed.

Considerations for all drills

• Keyless or keyed chucks? Generally, a keyed chuck can be locked in super tight, but you’ll need to use (and not lose) the key. Keyless chucks are more convenient but can wear out

• How often do you use the drill? If it’s infrequent, you may find that a cordless drill always has a dead battery when you need to use it.

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BACKGROUND

I have used tons of different drills over the years, and this review is based on that experience along with looking at many recent reviews of cordless drill reviews and every other source I could find, include user reviews on Amazon and checking out models in person. In the studio, I like to use the best tools at the lowest price. What that means in practice is I avoid the super-cheap brands such as Black and Decker or Ryobi, and will generally choose the base models of top quality brands such as Milwaukee, Bosch, and DeWalt. I totally understand the need for a powerful, $200+ drill for a construction job site. But in my experience, the entry-level drills are powerful enough for most uses, and they are lighter, more compact, and easier for most people to grip. They work for me and I think they’ll work for you too.

Other Considerations when choosing a cordless drill:

Beyond the drill, there are a few other considerations when selecting a cordless drill:

• Committing to one company / battery style? Batteries vary by manufacturer, so you may have the option to swap batteries between multiple devices. This can save money, but also locks you in to that brand. Having multiple tools with one model of battery and charger can simplify your life.

• Off-brand batteries: These are available for most brands. My advice is to avoid them as they usually wear out faster and don’t hold a charge as long. Be careful of aftermarket kits on Amazon. Many of the cheaper kit options combine brand name drills with cheaper, aftermarket batteries.

• Size of the chuck and what attachments you will be using. What kinds of mixer blades and bits will you be using? Make sure they will fit the drill. The drills reviewed above usually have a 3/8” chuck. Only rarely have I needed a 1/2” chuck to accommodate larger shaft sizes.

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Wrap-Up

This post covered top picks for cordless drills, as well as some useful tools and accessories. My top pick was the Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill/Driver. It’s a well-made drill that is versatile, comfortable, lightweight, and is still powerful enough for most uses. With this drill, I keep a variety of mixer blades, as well as drill bits, screwdriver bits, and hollow-core diamond bits.

A cordless drill is a vital tool in the studio. What do you like to use? Let us know your favorite models and accessories in the comments.

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