Best Ceramic Textbooks and Guidebooks

Updated June 10, 2021

The Workshop Guide to Ceramics by Duncan Hooson and Anthony Quinn, our top pick for a ceramics textbook.

The Workshop Guide to Ceramics by Duncan Hooson and Anthony Quinn, our top pick for a ceramics textbook.

These days, there’s a ton of information, guides, and videos online that will help you learn about ceramics. But it can also be nice to have everything in well thought out and comprehensive book. This is especially the case when you are in the studio with dirty hands and it’s hard to use a device.

There are a lot of speciality books for ceramics, focusing on aspects such as wheel throwing or glazing, with more coming out every year. But the goal of this post is to review a few books that cover the whole spectrum of the ceramic process, not just one specialized area such as wheel throwing or hand building.

Many of these books are more than a decade old and out of print, but they still are good resources for a comprehensive overview of clay, pottery, and ceramics.

TOP PICK:

The Workshop Guide to Ceramics

By Duncan Hooson and Anthony Quinn, published 2012

The top pick for a complete guide to clay is The Workshop Guide to Ceramics by Duncan Hooson and Anthony Quinn. Published by Barrons in 2012, the hardcover book has 320 pages full of information, technique, and full-color images. Divided into eight parts, the text covers everything from a beginner’s guide, forming techniques, glazing and firing, to thoughts on how to have a professional practice. It’s a remarkable book, both for the breadth of information covered and how it is accessible and useful for beginners and professionals alike. It’s also full of images that illustrate technique and lots of finished work by accomplished artists.

Written by artists and educators (Quinn is a professor at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London and Hooson is a teacher in London) the book is the best laid out and comprehensive textbook on ceramics that I have seen. Handbuilding, mold making, wheel throwing, glazing, surface decoration, lathe turning, you name it—this book has info on it. Flip through the images above to see some inside shots of the book, including the table of contents.

As of this writing, the book appears to be out of print (like almost every book covered in this post) but it’s available used. This book is worth it.

Shop Hardcover version:

Note: There is also a newer, paperback option by the same authors from 2017 that appears to be the same book but with a different title called Ceramics: The Indispensable Guide.

Other options:

The following guides and textbooks are all great options for your studio too. Most of these books are out of print, but that means you can often find a great deal used. And the books are often full of great examples of artwork by a wide variety of potters, artists, and ceramic specialists.

The cover of the third edition of Working With Clay by Susan and Jan Peterson.

The cover of the third edition of Working With Clay by Susan and Jan Peterson.

Working With Clay

By Susan and Jan Peterson, most recently published in 2009.

Working With Clay is full of color images throughout the book.

Working With Clay is full of color images throughout the book.

Working With Clay is a concise, illustrated guidebook of everything you need to know to work with clay and ceramic. It includes chapters on hand building, wheel throwing, glazing, firing, ceramic history, and a lot more. Written by ceramics legend Susan Peterson and her daughter Jan, it is illustrated throughout with many color photos. Although it is more than 10 years old, it contains all the main information you will need to get started with clay, and it has a lot more that makes it useful for advanced students and educators. Designed as a textbook, it’s still available used for around $30 at the time of this post. The color pictures in this text are great and the spiral binding makes it easy to leave open to the page you may need for reference.

Working With Clay by Susan and Jan Peterson, most recent edition is 2009 but any editions will be helpful reference books.

Although it’s almost 20 years old, Make It In Clay is still one of the best concise and comprehensive guidebooks to the ceramic process.

Although it’s almost 20 years old, Make It In Clay is still one of the best concise and comprehensive guidebooks to the ceramic process.

Make It In Clay: A Beginner’s Guide to Ceramics

By Charlotte F. Speight and John Toki, most recent edition is 2001

An interior page spread from Make It In Clay.

An interior page spread from Make It In Clay.

Almost 20 years old, this is still one of the best options for a comprehensive but concise overview to all aspects of ceramics. Similar to Working With Clay, it can be found in an easy-to-use spiral binding. This book covers every aspect of clay and ceramics, and includes a lot of suggestions for projects to get started. The book is illustrated with just black and white photos, making it less visually dynamic than our top pick. But it has great info and although it is almost 20 years old, this is still a worthy addition to your ceramic library. The information in the book is clearly presented, easy to follow, and covers all the basics. I’ve seen used copies online for between $20 and $40, which is a great deal for the amount of info packed into this book.

Make it in Clay, by Charlotte F. Speight and John Toki, 2001

The cover of the fourth edition (2003) of The Craft and Art of Clay, a ceramic textbook by Susan and Jan Peterson.

The cover of the fourth edition (2003) of The Craft and Art of Clay, a ceramic textbook by Susan and Jan Peterson.

The Craft and Art of Clay

By Susan and Jan Peterson, multiple editions but most recent is fifth edition, 2012

An interior spread from the 4th edition of The Craft and Art of Clay.

An interior spread from the 4th edition of The Craft and Art of Clay.

This is one of the most comprehensive guidebook / textbook covering ceramics. One Amazon reviewer describes it as the “end all, be all” of ceramic books. It has plenty of information for beginners, including step-by-step instructions. But it goes so much deeper than Working With Clay, which is by the same mother-daughter team, including a serious amount of ceramic history, profiles of contemporary artists, chart after chart of technical information. Written as a textbook for college classes, this is the book you’ll want if you are super serious about ceramics. I have owned the 3rd edition since I started working with clay, and after all these years I’ll flip it open and find new information or a deeper understanding of something I’m researching, such as glaze materials or firing info.

The book is illustrated with a combination of color and black and white photographs. The book is out of print and though any edition is probably fine, I would look for a used copy of either the fourth (2003) or fifth (2012) edition. At the time of this post, used prices for these editions were around $20 to $80 depending the the edition and condition of these books. The 3rd edition (1999) is often under $10 used and is great too, it’s just missing a bit of the updated information.

The Craft and Art of Clay, by Susan and Jan Peterson, various editions.

Hands in Clay 1.jpg

Hands in Clay

by Charlotte F. Speight and John Toki, multiple editions, most recent is 2003

Hands in Clay is the other option if you are looking for a big, comprehensive ceramics textbook. Continuously updated since the 1970s, this book has everything you need to get started in clay or if you are looking for one big book that is a ceramic reference. Full of how-tos, project ideas, and information on ceramic history, it’s a great option. The book is illustrated with a combination of color and black and white images. Of particular interest is the images and info detailing how to make large scale ceramic sculptures.

At the time of this post, used copies of the fifth edition ranged from $25 to $50, and the fourth edition was available for under $10. It’s a good deal for a large book!

Hands in Clay by Charlotte F. Speight and John Toki

An interior spread from the fifth edition of Hands in Clay, 2003

An interior spread from the fifth edition of Hands in Clay, 2003

The Potter’s Dictionary of Material and Techniques

By Frank and Janet Hamer, sixth edition, 2015

Continuously updated for more than 20 years, this Ceramics Dictionary is a great resource for intermediate to advanced students and ceramic professionals. Arranged alphabetically, this is a well-researched and comprehensive resource. But the drawback of a dictionary versus a textbook, is that you need to know where to start, so if you are a beginner it’s best to start with one of the books listed above. But, this can be a fun book to just flip through and read an entry or two that catch your eye. Many potters and ceramists swear by this book and it’s a great addition to any ceramic studio or library.

The Potter’s Dictionary of Materials and Techniques, by Frank and Janet Hamer

The Potter’s Dictionary, sixth edition

The Potter’s Dictionary, sixth edition

The Ceramic’s Process: a Manual and Source of Inspiration for Ceramic Art and Design

By Anton Reijnders and the European Ceramic Work Centre

This 2005 book is an impressive overview of techniques, recipes, and working processes used at the European Ceramic Workcentre in the Netherlands. The EKWC is an international center where ceramic specialists help artists, designers, and architects realize their projects in clay and ceramics. Reijnders worked there for many years, and the book contains recipes, how-to guides, and lots of pictures. The recipes use European ingredients, which makes it a bit hard for someone working in the United States, but if you read it carefully you can translate the materials into something available at your local clay supplier in any country. The recipes are also on the more general side, so expect to do some testing to get things to work in your studio.

Ceramic Process.jpg

The Ceramic Process by Anton Reijnders

The best part of this book is the color photographs throughout. The EKWC has been a place where countless artists and designers have realized their projects, and this book documents much of that work from 1990 to 2005. There is probably no better guide to this period of large-scale ceramic sculpture in Europe, and for that alone, the book is worth it. There is also information on paper clay, large-scale plaster sculptures, and other adventurous approaches to clay, making this a useful resource for ceramic sculptors and designers.

Out of print, this hardcover book is often listed at $200 to $500 used. If you see a copy available for $150 or less, it’s probably worth it. Or see if you can find a copy at your local library. The book was around $60-80 when it was in print. But it is a unique book that does cover every part of working with clay.

The Ceramic Process by Anton Reijnders, 2005

Summary

This post has covered a variety of ceramic guidebooks and textbooks. Although so much information is available online, it can still be useful to have a book where the information is laid out thematically or by alphabetically order. Due to changes in publishing, many of these books are out of print. However, the information is still good and a reference book can be a vital resource in the studio.

For more posts on books and ideas, click here.

Do you have any favorite ceramic guidebooks? Let us know in the comments.

The Best Cleanup Tools for Ceramic and Art Studios

The Carlisle Mop Bucket, one of two top picks for a studio mop bucket.

The Carlisle Mop Bucket, one of two top picks for a studio mop bucket.

Updated and revised, June 12, 2021

In a studio, it’s important to have the right clean up tools to keep things neat, organized, and safe. This is especially true in ceramic and sculpture studios, where dust can be an issue. And while any sort of clean up tool will be better than nothing, high-quality, well-designed tools do stand the test of time and most importantly, really work.

This post is an overview of quality clean-up tools that get the job done. These are the exact tools that I use in my studio.

Table of Contents

  • Dust Pan and Bench Brush

  • Long Handle Dust Pans / Lobby Pans

  • Brooms

  • Sweeping Compound

  • Mop and Bucket: Rubbermaid Commercial and Carlisle

  • Large Yellow Sponges

  • HEPA Vacuum

  • Walk Behind Floor Scrubbers

  • Clean-Up Recommendations

  • Summary

Dust Pan and Bench Brush/Duster

The Rubbermaid Commercial Dust Pan and Bench Brush/Duster are simply the best dust pan and brush combo that I’ve ever used. The pan is sturdy, functional, and hangs nicely on the wall. It is 12.25” wide and about 3 inches deep at the tallest point.

The bench brush is where you really step up your cleaning game: It’s a heavy-duty brush with relatively soft bristles that clean evenly and completely, and can be washed if needed.

This combo is great for cleaning dirty tabletops, sweeping up larger chunks of clay, sawdust, brushing off a kiln shelf, or for light-duty floor cleaning.

When compared to other dust pan and brush combos, there is simply no comparison. These are long-lasting, functional upgrades to your studio. They will last years, if not decades, under normal use.

Long Handle Dust Pans / Lobby Pans

A long handle dust pan and broom are your other tool for dealing with chunks and dust. They really save your back and make cleanup that much easier. And in a shared studio space such as a community studio, having a long-handled dust pan will greatly increase the likelihood of studio members doing their part to clean up.


Oxo Good Grips Sweeping Sets

The slightly larger Oxo Good Grips Sweep Set with the extendable handle broom.

The slightly larger Oxo Good Grips Sweep Set with the extendable handle broom.

The Oxo Good Grips Sweeping Sets are my favorite long-handle dust pans and broom combos. Thoughtfully designed and sturdy, it’s what I currently use in my studio and I even purchased the smaller combo for use at home.

The larger “extendable handle” set (shop at Amazon) has a 10.8” wide dust pan that is 3.5 inches tall. The dust pan handle is 35” high, and the broom handle can be extended from 35” to 53” inches.

The smaller set (shop at Amazon) has a 9.5 inch wide dust pan that is 3 inches tall, and the dust pan and broom are around 35 inches tall or 38.5 inches when hanging upright.

Both sets are made from the same sturdy plastic and design, including a swiveling dust pan that can lock in place. The thick rubber “comb” on the dust pan help clean the bristles of the broom. This is especially good for removing hair and dust balls that stick to the broom.

The dust pan handle also contains a handy snap, so the set clicks together for easy storage both upright or hanging. In the hanging mode, the head of the broom can be easily tucked into the dust pan. It’s an all-around great combo.

 

Rubbermaid Commercial Long Handled Lobby Dust Pan

Another great long-handle dust pan option is the Rubbermaid Commercial Lobby Dust Pan. It has a much larger dust pan than the Oxo version, making it perfect for academic studios and larger spaces, such as community or garage studios. It is heavy duty, holds a large amount of dust and trash, and the pan swivels for picking up and dumpling. For storage, it will sit on the ground or can be hung up by the handle hook.

Rubbermaid Commercial Lobby Broom. Just 7.5” wide, so a standard broom may be better for studios.

Rubbermaid Commercial Lobby Broom. Just 7.5” wide, so a standard broom may be better for studios.

This dust pan pairs well with either a standard angle broom or the small lobby broom. The lobby broom is 7.5” wide, putting it on the smaller side if your goal is to clean up dust. I generally prefer a standard angle broom (see below) but the lobby broom does have a shorter handle, hangs up easily, and is good for sweeping larger chunks into the dust pan.

My only complaint about this dust pan is it doesn’t have a clip to hold a broom in place. But like most other Rubbermaid Commercial products, this is a well-built tool that will last forever.

Brooms

The Rubbermaid 10.5” Angle Broom.

The Rubbermaid 10.5” Angle Broom.

Angle Broom

If you are working in a studio that generates dust, such as a ceramic studio or woodshop, you need to be mindful when sweeping and generating any sort of dust. Sweeping compound can help trap dust at the ground level before it gets in the air, but another way to avoid creating airborne dust is to sweep gently with a soft-bristled broom. Move dirt deliberately into piles, then get it into your dust pan and you should be fine.

The best all-purpose broom for a studio is a simple angle broom. My favorite is the Rubbermaid Commercial 10.5” angle broom. It’s a quality broom and if you ever do actually wear out the brush head, you can buy replacement heads.

Push Broom

Rubbermaid Commercial Smooth Surface Fine Duty brush head for a push broom.

Rubbermaid Commercial Smooth Surface Fine Duty brush head for a push broom.

For larger rooms, you may want to also have a push broom or two. These are especially great for larger academic studios, outdoor concrete pads, or hallways. It’s harder to maneuver these around table legs and chairs.

As mentioned above, the way to go with possibly dusty floors is to get the softest bristles possible. For a push broom, the Rubbermaid Commercial Smooth Surface Fine Duty brush head is the way to go. Pair it with a broom handle, and you’ll have a great broom.

Sweeping Compound

SpillFix all purpose absorbent / sweeping compound.

SpillFix all purpose absorbent / sweeping compound.

Anytime you are sweeping a dry or dusty floor, sweeping compound will greatly reduce or eliminate any potential airborne dust and help you grab all the dust and debris. Sweeping compound is typically some form of oily sawdust. It is tacky enough to grab dust and dirt, but dry enough that there is no trace of oil left on the floor. Some sweeping compounds also double as absorbents for oil or other materials.

The best way to use sweeping compound is to fill a plastic cup with a bit of sweeping compound and fling it in a low, horizontal motion in order to distribute it evenly. Then, sweep as normal.

For busy studios, sweeping compound can be ordered in large bags or drums from most hardware stores or warehouse supply stores. Sweeping compound will dry out over time, so it’s best to order what you can use in 6 to 12 months. For smaller studios or if you are trying sweeping compound for the first time, the smallish jar of SpillFix linked below is a great way to test it out. Once you start using sweeping compound, you’ll wonder how you ever swept a studio floor without it.

Mop and Bucket

A mop and wringer bucket is an important part of any studio clean-up operation, especially if you are working with clay and want to avoid dust. The best wringer bucket is the Rubbermaid Commercial Wavebreak Bucket Wringer Set and for the mop, my preference is the Rubbermaid Side Gate Mop Handle with a blue mop head.

Rubbermaid Side Gate Mop Handle

Rubbermaid Side Gate Mop Handle

I know this post is starting to seem like it’s all Rubbermaid Commercial products, but I have used and can vouch for the quality, durability, and design of these products. (For a review of a Rubbermaid product I don’t endorse, read about 10 gallon buckets here) The good news on wringer buckets is there are a variety of side-press wringer buckets that are all about the same price and are highly reviewed, including Carslisle and Amazon Basics.

The main additional feature of the Rubbermaid is the “WaveBreak” system, essentially two flanges inside the bucket to help control the water when you are rolling the bucket. For me, the WaveBreak doesn’t add much, but I do appreciate the quality of the caster wheels and the wringer system on the Rubbermaid.

For a mop head, I find that the blue headband-style mop heads hold the longest. I prefer the standard 20” length, but there are options out there.

The Carlisle Mop Bucket is available in a 35 and 26 quart size.

The Carlisle Mop Bucket is available in a 35 and 26 quart size.

Carlisle Mop Buckets

For an alternative to the Rubbermaid Mop Bucket, check out the Carlisle Mop Buckets. They are available in two sizes: 26 quart and 35 quart, and a variety of colors. Options are good! And the smaller size is appropriate for smaller studios. They do not feature the “Wavebreak” middle bumper found on the Rubbermaid bucket, but this actually makes it easier to clean out the grime that settles to the bottom of the bucket.

I use and stock the 35 quart Rubbermaid bucket in larger studios, but in my own personal studio, I have the 26 quart Carlisle bucket. The mop wringer top part is the same size as the larger model, but the 4.5 gallon bucket takes up less room while providing enough water for cleanup. The casters don’t seem as robust as the Rubbermaid buckets, but overall, it’s basically the same, well-built mop bucket.

 
The Carlisle Mop Buckets are also available in a five colors.

The Carlisle Mop Buckets are also available in a five colors.

Large Yellow Sponges

Large yellow sponges are one of the best cleanup tools for the size, versatility, and ability to pick up large volumes of liquid. I use them every day in the studio and have tried just about every brand name and generic out there.

My advice is to go for quality on yellow sponges, and my favorite is the Armaly ProPlus Grouting and Cleanup Sponge. It does cost more, but it lasts so much longer. The generic packs you’ll find online contain sponges that usually fall apart in weeks. The Armaly Pro sponges last 6 months or longer under heavy use in the community studio I manage, and should last even longer in a personal studio.

Another decent option is the QEP yellow sponge, which will also last longer than generics. For a full rundown of heavy-duty cleanup sponges, click here. If the prices online seem too high, you may be able to find these sponges for less at big box hardware stores.

HEPA Vacuum

A quality HEPA vacuum is a must-have in any studio, especially if you are working with clay, plaster, or wood and generating dust. It’s always best to wet mop (or use sweeping compound) to avoid putting dust in the air, but if you do use a vacuum, you want to know that you have good filters and are not putting the fine dust back in the air. And for situations like cleaning the inside of a kiln, you definitely need a good vacuum.

The Nilfisk Alto Aero HEPA vacuum is a good balance of quality, and design. It is certified for drywall dust abatement. It’s on the more expensive side for a wet/dry vac, but it’s on the cheaper side for high quality HEPA dust vacuums. (I personally use a 20-year-old Nilfisk GM80. Those are great vacuums if you have $1400…)

I have used other Nilfisk vacuums at various shops and have always been impressed with their quality. Expect this to be an investment that lasts for years or decades.

For a complete review of HEPA vacuums that work for silica dust abatement, click here.

Walk Behind Floor Scrubbers

The Clark Vantage 14, a walk behind floor scrubber made by Nilfisk-Advance.

The Clark Vantage 14, a walk behind floor scrubber made by Nilfisk-Advance.

For larger studios, a battery-operated floor scrubber can be a quick and effective way to clean up. These machines put water down, scrub and clean with a rotating head, and then a rear squeegee helps collect water that is sucked back into the machine.

Available in a variety of sizes, these machines will make short work of even thousands of square feet of studio space. They do costs thousands of dollars, making them more appropriate for larger studios. But in the end, a unit like this will save time and result in cleaner floors. One piece of advice is to definitely get a cordless model.

A smaller option for this type of machine is the Clarke Vantage 14, which is made by Nilfisk-Advance. It has a 14 inch scrubber head, 3 gallon capacity, 100 minutes of battery life, and produces a relatively quiet 64 dB of noise when in operation.

Tennant T2 Walk Behind Floor Scrubber

The Tennant T2 floor scrubber.

The Tennant T2 floor scrubber.

A larger, battery-powered floor scrubber is the Tennant T2. It has a 17 inch wide scrubbing disc, a 7 gallon capacity for water or cleaning solution, and a 9.5 gallon reservoir for soiled water. It has a quiet, 68 dB operating noise and is somewhat compact at 44 inches long, 27 inches wide, and 36 inches tall.

Clean Up Recommendations

Here is how I clean up:

Tables and countertops
Use bench brush and dust pan to clean large chunks. Then wipe clean with water and large yellow sponges.

Floors
Spot-sweep as needed with broom and long-handled dust pan.
Use sweeping compound and sweep. Vigorous sweeping can produce airborne dust, so work slowly and carefully.
After sweeping, then mop floors. If needed, a second mopping should get things spotless.

Kiln room
Kilns are vacuumed as needed with a HEPA vacuum.
Floors are cleaned as described above.
As kiln rooms are sources of a lot of dust from ware storage, kiln wash, kiln shelf maintenance, etc, I am extra vigilant about cleaning frequently in kiln rooms.

Summary

This post has covered all the clean up tools I use in my own studio and studios that I manage. These recommendations are made based on years of personal experience and what has worked for me and other studio members. Cleaning up is an incredibly important part of the art making process, and you want to have the right tools to make the job efficient and effective.

What clean up tools do you use in your studio? Let us know in the comments.

How To Mix a Ceramic Glaze From Scratch

 
A red iron oxide glaze in the process of being run through a Talisman Glaze Sieve.

A red iron oxide glaze in the process of being run through a Talisman Glaze Sieve.

 

This post is an overview of how to mix a ceramic glaze from dry ingredients, including the tools, techniques and procedures to get you started.

Whether you buy a pre-mixed dry glaze or weigh each ingredient, there are a lot of advantages to mixing your own glaze:

  • Save money: Mixing glazes in your studio is always cheaper, sometimes as much as 80 to 90 percent cheaper than bottled glaze.

  • Customize: Learn how to modify slips and glazes to suit your kiln and clay bodies.

  • Learn glaze chemistry: Even a bit of info can help you get the results you want.

A variety of our favorite glaze recipes are posted here, and there are lots of websites and books with glaze recipes. There are endless amounts of glaze recipes, so if you are new to this, just start with one basic one such as a glossy clear. There are also pre-mixed, dry glazes which are effective and still save some money over buying bottled glazes.

Keep reading for the complete how to instructions.

Table of Contents

  • Glaze Mixing Tools and Accessories

  • How To Mix Glazes From Scratch

  • Testing and Storing Glazes

  • Summary

Glaze Mixing Tools and Accessories

Here’s what you need to mix glaze in your studio:

How To Mix Glazes From Scratch

  1. Review recipe.

    Check to make sure you have enough of each ingredient. It can be helpful to calculate and write out the amount of each material, to be used as a checklist.

  2. Prepare work area

    Put on a dust mask, clean your scale and work area. Get your materials, buckets, and scoops together.

  3. Zero scale

    Place your measuring pan or bowl on the scale and turn it on. If needed, press the tare button so that the scale is zeroed out.

  4. Weigh ingredients

    Weigh each ingredient (this is where your checklist is handy) and put them in a dry bowl or bucket. After measuring all the ingredients, mix the dry ingredients together. Some glaze ingredients, such as bentonite, are prone to clumping so it is important to mix everything dry first.

  5. Add to water and mix

    Add the mixed glaze materials to water and mix until it is thick cream or buttermilk consistency. An electric drill with a proper mixing blade greatly speeds up this process. A large plastic scraper will dislodge material from the side of the bucket. Once all the dry ingredients have been mixed with water, you can remove your mask if desired.

    Note: it’s best to add glaze materials to water. If you add water to a bucket of dry materials, it’s hard to get everything in the bottom corners mixed.

  6. Sieve and homogenize

    Prepare another clean bucket with a sieve, preferably a fine 80 mesh sieve. Run the glaze through the sieve this first time, to break up any clumps. A brush can help push material through the sieve, or a Talisman Glaze Sieve is a tool made specifically for mixing glaze into 5 or 10 gallon buckets.

    Then, clean the bucket where you will be storing the glaze. Run the glaze through the sieve a second time into this clean bucket.

  7. Test glaze consistency

    Glazes are typically mixed to a specific gravity, which measures the amount of dissolved solids in the water. Usually glazes are around 1.50, which means 50 parts dissolved solids to 100 parts water. Keep records and mix the glaze to a consistency that works for you.

    Specific gravity can be measured with a specialized (but fragile) hydrometer, or you can use a graduated cylinder on your scale. With your cylinder zeroed out on the scale, pour in 100ml of the mixed glaze and check the weight. Add water as needed, and mix.

  8. Label and store

    Glaze containers and lids should be labeled with the name, temperature, and any other information that will help you. Laminated, waterproof labels are best but packing tape can also protect a label for some time.

Testing and Storing Glazes

Testing Glaze

It is helping to make a test tile of a glaze, on each clay body you use. Vertical test tiles such as tubes from an extruder are best, as they show how a glaze will “move” with gravity. Dip your test tile with one and two dips to show how different thicknesses of glaze affect the color.

Some studios choose to make a test tile with each batch of glaze. But if you are careful to mix the glaze accurately to a similar specific gravity, and your firings are repeatable, you should get roughly the same glaze results each time. There are no guarantees with glaze though. It is important to keep records, both in a glaze book and a kiln log, in order to get standardized results. But, glaze materials do change over time so as necessary you can make new test tiles.

Storing glazes

Glazes can be stored in sealed containers or buckets almost indefinitely. Most glaze ingredients are inorganic and will not rot. But some ingredients, such as bone ash, can cause some rotting smells. To avoid this, make sure the glaze is mixed with some frequency. If the odor persists, you can add a trace amount of copper to any glaze (even white glazes!) without affecting the color. Copper is an anti-fungal and can cut down or eliminate odor. Read our post on that here.

Remixing glaze

As they are used, glazes do lose some moisture to evaporation and bisqueware can suck extra water out of the glaze mix. It can be helpful to mix and then do a quick visual check of the glaze. If necessary, you can re-check the specific gravity and add water. If a glaze seems thick or is glopping onto your pieces, it’s definitely time to check it and probably add water.

In addition, when I mix glaze, I will usually run all the old and new glaze through a sieve. Small bits of bisque and other contaminants can fall into a glaze bucket. When I’m using it, I want to know what I’ve got in that bucket. It does take extra work but having a double-sieved, homogenized glaze will result more even glaze application and hopefully, better results.

Summary

This post has covered a basic overview of mixing glazes from scratch. It covered the tools, techniques, and a few helpful hints to mix and store glazes. If you can follow a recipe, you can mix glaze. There is an overwhelming amount of glaze info out there, but if you start with just one basic recipe and grow from there, you will be a glaze master in no time and you will be able to customize and mix glazes to suit your own needs.

If you are looking for more info on mixing glazes, the glaze books by John Britt are some of the best resources.

The Complete Guide to Mid-Range Glazes

Buy at Bookshop.org

Buy at Amazon

The Complete Guide to High-Fire Glazes

Buy at Bookshop.org

Buy at Amazon

Questions or comments? Let us know in the comments.

The Best Glaze Mixing Accessories For Ceramic Studios

Mixing your own glazes from scratch is cost-effective and allows you to customize glazes to suit your studio. Whether you are mixing a powdered glaze with water, or weighing each ingredient and starting from scratch, having the ability to mix glazes opens up possibilities in your studio. You don’t need a huge set up to get started, a few simple tools and buckets are all you need. Below are reviews of our favorite glaze-mixing accessosories.

This list includes:

  • Drills

  • Immersion Blenders

  • Sieves and Strainers

  • Dust Protection

  • Mixer Blades

  • Scales

Drills

A drill is one of the most important glaze-mixing tools. Sure, you could get a big whisk or paddle and mix your glaze by hand, but….I wouldn’t recommend it.

For a drill, my favorite is the Milwaukee M12 3/8” Drill. It’s compact, well built, and affordable. And it has enough power to mix a 5 gallon bucket and just enough power to mix 10 gallons of glaze. It’s also cordless, which I find easier to use in the studio but you do sacrifice some power and you’ll have to deal with recharging batteries.

There are a lot of drill options out there, with all sorts of options, battery and cord styles. For more info, check out the Studio Manager Cordless Drill Review and our Corded Drill Review

Immersion Blender

For small batches of glaze, especially test batches, an immersion blender is a great tool. Designed for kitchen use, these definitely have enough power to hold up in the studio. I would just make sure you have one dedicated for studio use and a separate blender for kitchen use.

For an immersion blender, I have never noticed much of a difference between name brands and generics. You just want a blender that will work and get your glaze mixed. A great option for this is the Mueller Austria 9 Speed Immersion Blender. You probably don’t need all those speeds, but it does have a turbo button which speeds things up. And at around $30-35, this is one of the more affordable immersion blenders on the market.

Sieves and Strainers

A sieve is an important part of mixing glazes. A sieve insures that particles are broken up and that the ingredients are evenly distributed in the glaze. Proper mixing and straining also reduces glazes flaws, generally resulting in a more even glaze. If you are mixing glazes from dry powder or from scratch, you must run them through a sieve. Generally, I have a variety of sieves in the studio including a simple kitchen sieve, a smaller tea strainer, and specialized tools such as the Talisman Rotary Sieve.

The Talisman Rotary Sieve.

The Talisman Rotary Sieve.

Talisman Rotary Sieve

The best tool for sieving glazes is the Talisman Rotary Sieve. This is a large, hand-cranked sieve that will fit over a 5 or 10 gallon bucket. It has three brushes which can be removed for cleaning (or replaced if worn out) and removable screens. This allows you to choose which size of mesh to screen your glaze. Typically, this is done somewhere between 80 to 120 mesh. The Talisman Rotary Sieve is expensive, usually $200-250, but it makes short work of the sieving process and the brush system helps break up smaller particles, resulting in a uniform glaze batch. It’s an incredibly well-built tool and if handled with respect, it will hold up for decades of use. Talisman Rotary Sieves are typically only available from speciality clay supply stores, so shop clay stores online or contact your local clay supplier.

Talisman Test Sieve

Talisman Test Sieve

Talisman Test Sieve

Another option, especially for glaze test batches, is a cup sieve such as the Talisman Test Sieve. These small sieves are stackable, come in a variety of mesh sizes from 5 to 250, and are really well built. You probably just need one or a few, I’d suggest an 80 to start and in my own studio, I generally just use 40 mesh for a rough sieve and 80 mesh for a fine sieve.

Cuisinart Fine Mesh Steel Strainer

Cuisinart Fine Mesh Steel Strainer

Fine Mesh Steel Strainers

Another useful tool is a kitchen steel mesh strainer. These are not fine enough for a final glaze strain, but the wider mesh is still useful for quickly breaking up chunks of material. They are also great for quickly processing glaze in order to remove any bisque chunks or other small things.

When mixing glaze, materials such as Wollastonite, Soda Ash, Borax, Zinc Oxide, and most oxides used for colorants and others must be run through glaze sieve (usually 80 mesh), but if you start with a kitchen sieve, you’ll get the big chunks out quickly and can have an easier time with the glaze sieve. Smaller strainers such as a tea strainer are also useful for quickly running an underglaze or small batch through mesh. Sometimes, a simple mix and strain can bring a thickened glaze, underglaze, or slip back to being easy to use.

A great option for a kitchen steel mesh strainer is the Cuisinart 3 pack of Fine Mesh Metal Strainers. The all-metal design makes it easy to clean and maintain, and the variety of sizes will help with most small to medium glaze batches, or if you need to quickly strain a chunky material before running it through a finer mesh. There is also a link to a similar product by ExcelSteel at Home Depot.

Recommended Sieve Sizes

Here’s a useful chart of recommended sieve mesh sizes to use when mixing glaze, slip, and casting slip.

Suggested Sieve Size.jpg

Face Masks and Dust Protection

Dust protection and personal protection equipment is vital when mixing glazes. The main worry is any sort of airborne particles, particularly the finest particles such as silica. Repeated exposure to these particles, found in all dry glaze and clay materials, can lead to respiratory problems. Some also choose to wear plastic gloves when mixing and using glazes. The best thing when thinking about gloves is to assess your own risk and work to understand what is in glazes and what may be dangerous.

Respirator

The 3M Respirator

The 3M Half Facepiece Respirator with P100 cartridge style filters.

The best dust protection is a respirator. These devices are reusable, fit on your face more tightly than a dust mask, and the filters can be replaced as needed. Although moisture can build up, I find them to be more comfortable than a paper or surgical type mask, and they definitely provide a tighter fit. One drawback though, is you can’t really talk to anyone while they are on.

For a respirator, I have always used a 3M half facepiece respirator with P100 filters. They are usually widely available, so it’s easy to find replacement filters in stores or online. It can be hard to tell if the filters are getting full of dust, so I generally buy new filters every 6 months. It can round around $20 for new filters, but as someone who works full time in ceramic studios, I don’t want to take any risks with my lungs.

If you don’t want to get a respirator, at the very least get a N95 or KN95 mask and wear it whenever you are working with dry glaze or clay materials. Also be aware, fine particles can remain in the air for a while, use caution when mixing and try to keep dust out of the air. For more, see our complete article on dust masks for studios.

Mixing Blades and Paddles

The right mixer blade will make your glaze and slip mixing quick and efficient. It’s best to stock different size mixers for mixing different amounts of glaze. These are the mixing blades I stock in my own studio.

The small Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade

The small Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade, also called a laboratory mixer.

Small Mixer Blade

To mix pint jars and small cups, the Jiffy LM10 Mixer Blade is just the right size. It’s 10 1/4” long with a 1 1/4” head.

 
Helix mixer blade for 1 to 2 gallon buckets

Helix mixer blade for 1 to 2 gallon buckets

MEDIUM MIXER BLADE

For one to two gallons, I prefer a helix mixer designed for 1 gallon buckets. It’s cheaper than a metal blade but it can really mix. As long as you don’t grind the plastic blades against buckets, these economical blades should last for years and also work well for jobs such as mixing plaster.

 
The Jiffy ES Mixer Blade for 2 to 10 gallon buckets of glaze.

The Jiffy ES Mixer Blade for 2 to 10 gallon buckets of glaze.

LARGE MIXER BLADE

For 5 or 10 gallon buckets, the Jiffy ES mixer blade is the way to go. It has a 20 1/2” long, 3/8” shaft and the head is 3 3/4” wide. It’s perfect for 5 gallon buckets and it will mix up to 10 gallons as long as you have a strong enough drill (usually a corded drill or a higher powered cordless drill)

Scales and Accessories

A scale is a must-have for mixing glazes. An accurate, durable scale is a great investment. My favorite is the Oxo 11 Pound Scale. To read about other scale options, the Studio Manager scale review can be found here.

The Oxo 11 Pound / 5 KG Scale is great for home or studio use.

The Oxo 11 Pound / 5 KG Scale is great for home or studio use.

The Oxo 11 Pound Scale is designed for kitchen use but it’s a just as useful in the studio. It runs on 4 AAA batteries, and is accurate to 1/8 ounce or 1 gram. A great feature is the pull-out, light up display that allows you to use the scale with larger bowls. The scale has four buttons: a lb/kg toggle, light switch, zero button, and power. The top stainless steel platform can also be removed for cleaning. This scale can accommodate up to 11 pounds or almost 5 kilograms at a time. It’s an incredible amount of features in a scale that typically costs about $50.

Ohaus Maxi-Scoop Bowl

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl.

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop bowl.

The Ohaus Maxi-Scoop is my favorite bowl to use when weighing dry ingredients. Made of polypropylene, it is 10 inches wide, has a pouring spout, and is durable and easy to clean. It holds a lot of material, typically up to about 2500 grams, and the open, wider design makes it easier to use in my opinion. Of course, you can use any sort of bowl to measure dry ingredients, but this one just seems to be ideal for scales and it’s the one I reach for first when I’m mixing glaze.

Metal Scoops

metalscoop.jpg

A quality metal scoop makes working with dry materials so much easier. In a pinch, I’ve repurposed small yogurt containers as scoops, but a durable, long-lasting metal scoop is better. For large storage bins or bags, you might get a scoop for each material. Or if you have a collection of 2 to 4 different sizes, you can get through most glaze batches without contaminating between materials, and then wash the scoops after glazing. For really strong ingredients such as red iron oxide, I leave small scoops in each bin so I don’t have to clean the scoops each time I use them.

Wrap-Up

This post has listed my favorite tools and accessories for use when mixing glaze, including drills, immersion blenders, sieves and strainers, dust protection, mixer blades, and scales. It may seem like a lot of stuff, but each tool has it’s role to play in the glaze-mixing process. If you are new to mixing glaze, start with the basics such as a scale, dust-protection and maybe just a wooden spoon, and go from there. You can always add tools as needed.

What are your favorite tools to use when mixing glaze? Let us know in the comments.

Tools for Home and Studio

There are many tools that are equally valuable at home or in the studio. Sometimes, it seems like most tools that are useful in a kitchen can also be put to use in the studio.

This post includes reviews of a few favorites that will hopefully give you some ideas for new tools to use, either at home or in the studio. What do you use in both the kitchen and studio? Please share in the comments.

Swedish Notched Rolling Pin

This notched, diamond-pattern wooden rolling pin or kruskavel can be used in the studio to roll out textured clay slabs. It’s especially useful for making test tiles. Or put it to use at home making crackers. It’s designed to make Swedish knaackebrods but the simple pattern looks great on a variety of baked goods.

Uses:

At home: roll out dough crackers, flatbreads, Swedish knaackebrods, or add notches to baked goods
In the studio: add the diamond texture to clay slabs and test tiles

Linden Sweden Deep Notched Rolling Pin

Swedish Notched Rolling Pin

Swedish Notched Rolling Pin

 

Patterned Wooden Rolling Pins

clay roller 2.jpg

This set has 10 wooden rolling pins with a variety of patterns. It’s is probably more useful in the studio than at home, but it can be used on crackers and flatbreads just as easily as clay slabs. These roller are relatively small, ranging from 3.5 to about 5 inches wide.

Uses:

At home: patterned crackers
In the studio: textured slabs, roll patterns on to thrown pots, create textured slabs to add to other pieces.

10-pack of textured clay rollers

10-pack of textured clay rollers

Set of 10 Wooden Pattern Rollers
This set is listed twice on amazon. Find it here or try this link.

 

Wooden Meat Tenderizer Mallet

wooden mallet.jpg

An all-wood meat tenderizer mallet is another texture tool for the studio, or a useful addition to your kitchen. Wood is less likely to stick to clay than metal, so this all-wood option is the way to go.

Uses:

At home: tenderizing steaks, fish, poultry, etc. Great for making flattened chicken breasts.
In the studio: similar to the diamond-pattern of the Swedish rolling pin, this is also a great tool for making patterns on individual test tiles

Double Side Heavyweight Wooden Meat Tenderizer Mallet

 

Round Cutters in Graduated Sizes

This set of circular cutters is another tool that is equally at home in the kitchen or studio. Great for biscuits or other round baking needs, it’s also perfect for making circles out of clay slabs. The simple design makes it easy to clean, and the container helps organize the pieces for storage.

There are also fluted circular cutters, which can add some nice patterns to your work. It’s best to stick with firm metal cutters, the softer plastic options are often not strong enough for the kitchen or studio.

Uses:
At home: cut biscuits, bread, English muffins, fondant decoration
In the studio: cut circular slabs, trace circles

Nesting Round Metal Cutters Set
There are name brand and many generic versions of this type of tool. Pictured is the Kayaso version, but there are other options such as this or this 6 piece option from Wilton.

For a fluted option, try this 11-piece set from Jokumo, or a 6-piece set from Wilton.

 

Wooden Thread Spiral Rolling Pin

wood thread rolling pin.jpg

Another simple but useful tool, this wooden rolling pin will add texture to your baking or clay projects. All wood is great because it’s less likely to stick to clay.

Uses:

At home: add texture to cookies, dumplings, pastas
In the studio: add texture to slabs. Great for adding texture and then stretching

Spiral Threaded Wooden Rolling Pin

 

Silicone Mats for baking or studio use

The Amazon Basics silicone mat

The Amazon Basics silicone mat

A non-stick work surface is vital if you are baking or working with clay. Products like Silpats or silicone baking mats give you that flexibility and are a tool for the home or studio. It’s handy to have these around for working on craft projects, or handbuilding with clay.

If you are looking for ceramic-specific work mats, the Ceramic Shop in Philadelphia has a variety of options. Those are nice options, but a silicone baking mat is often cheaper, almost as stiff, and can be used in a variety of ways.

Amazon Basics Silicone Baking Mat

 

Green Bell G-1008 Nail Clippers

The Green Bell G-1008 Nail Clipper

The Green Bell G-1008 Nail Clipper

If you are cooking or working in the studio, long nails can get in the way. Nail clippers may seem like the most mundane thing, but upgrading to a pair of Green Bell clippers shows how just about any other clippers is not as good.

I discovered the Green Bell Clippers years ago via this rhapsodic review, and they truly are the best nail clippers I’ve ever used. Made in Japan, these clippers effortlessly cut nails with a perfect tension. They also have a built-in nail file and are constructed with a weight, finish, and somewhat hefty quality that is just a step above any other nail clipper. Sure, they are now about $21 but you’ll most likely never need another clipper.

Green Bell Nail Clippers
I recommend the Green Bell G-1008 at amazon. For a smaller, narrower option, try the Green Bell G-1205

 

GorillaPod Phone Tripod

GorillaPod GripTight Pro

GorillaPod GripTight Pro

A flexible phone tripod is a handy tool to have anywhere these days, but especially at home or in the studio. Need to set up your phone to read a recipe? Trying to capture the perfect selfie? Or maybe you’re getting into timelapse recording of your work? This is the perfect tool for that.

GorillaPod Mini

GorillaPod Mini

There are numerous knockoff options, many that will do a fine job, but I have been very happy with the original version of this product, the Joby GorillaPod. I frequently use the phone option, and I have the larger 3K kit that can hold my big DSLR camera. They do cost a bit more, but Joby products stand the test of time.

Currently, there are two options for phone holder. The pro-grade phone stand that retails for almost $60, and a newer mini option that is $15 or less. The pro-grade model gives you longer legs that will allow the tripod to grip unusual objects, such as a stick or pole. The smaller option is good for a simple tripod or to stand on an uneven surface, but I wouldn’t expect it to grip too tightly.

GripTight GorilliaPod Phone Stand / Tripod

What are the essential tools that work in your home or studio? Please share in the comments.

The Best Way to Eliminate Odor from a Stinky Ceramic Slop or Glaze Bucket

Updated and revised, September 9, 2023

A dirty, stinky throwing slop trash can in need of some cleaning and copper carbonate, to eliminate odors.

A dirty, stinky throwing slop trash can in need of some cleaning and copper carbonate, to eliminate odors.

Stinky slop and glaze buckets can be a problem in any ceramic studio. The smells range from a swampy, pond-mud smell to a very strong sulfurous odor. All are caused by some kind of organic matter in your clay or glaze.

In addition, some glaze materials such as bone ash or CMC are organic materials and will start to smell over time, especially if the bucket is not stirred regularly.

To deal with smelly buckets, the best practices are to:

  1. Keep organic materials like brush bristles, paper, etc out of your buckets and jars

  2. Stir and mix your materials more frequently

  3. Cycle materials more frequently

  4. Clean your buckets with soap and water, and sterilize them with bleach

Adding bleach? In some studios, bleach is added to slop buckets or clean up buckets and mixed with the clay slop. This is an ok thing to do, but has it’s drawbacks. Usually, the bleach will just mask whatever the problem is for a few days or weeks, and then the smell will return. And I personally don’t like to add bleach to buckets where the material is being recycled such as clay slop buckets. And if you add too much bleach, the slop water can be rough on your hands.

The following article covers some ideas for eliminating odors from glaze buckets, underglaze jars, and slop buckets. Discussed is a somewhat extreme method of adding copper carbonate. In general, I would use this as a last resort after you have tried to cycle material, or clean outed and sterilized the problematic bucket. A little bit of copper can get rid of smells, because of the antimicrobial properties of the element, but using it does have some drawbacks as well.

This practice of adding a small amount of copper carbonate comes from a tip I read many years ago I read in Ceramics Monthly. (I haven’t been able to find the link) The tip from the potter was adding a trace amount of copper carbonate to glaze buckets. My memory is just a gram or two. It wasn’t enough to change the color of the glaze (even in a white glaze), but it was enough to prevent mold growth. If you have a glaze that regularly smells, try adding an extremely small amount of copper carbonate to any glaze, and see if that fixes the problem. The tutorial below also covers adding copper carbonate to slop buckets, in addition to some strategies to deal with smell glaze and underglaze jars.

Table of Contents

  1. How To Eliminate Odor From Glaze Buckets

  2. How To Eliminate Odor from Underglaze Jars

  3. Maintaining and Dealing with Odor in Slop Buckets and Reclaim Clay

How To Eliminate Odor From Glaze Buckets

Stinky glaze buckets happen from time to time. Usually, this is caused by some sort of organic matter. It could also be caused by organic glaze materials such as bone ash or CMC gum. For bone ash glazes, try stirring the glaze more often, or proceed with the copper carbonate fix as detailed below. For glazes with CMC gum, try replacing that with bentonite, which is a very fine, inorganic clay that can help glazes stay in suspension.

Before adding copper carbonate to a stinky bucket, screen the glaze first to make sure you’ve removed any brush bristles, bisque chunks, or other foreign matter. Sometimes, just stirring the glaze more often may eliminate the issue, so try that first!

Method:

Add 1 gram of copper carbonate per 5 gallons of glaze, stir, and wait 24 hours.

That’s it!

Just a bit of copper should take care of the problem, and in such a small amount, it shouldn’t change the color of the glaze. I even did this once with 5 gallon bucket of white glaze. A little risky, but it worked without changing the glaze color.

If you are nervous about adding copper carb, or if your studio scale is not very accurate, try measuring the smallest amount you can, such as 2 or 5 or 10 grams, and then physically dividing it up to get down to something like .5 grams or 1 grams, and add that small amount to your glaze. If the smell isn’t gone in 24 hours, repeat the process.

If the copper carbonate doesn’t solve your problem, don’t keep adding it past 2 or 3 grams. Eventually, you will add enough to alter the color of the glaze. If the problem persists, you may have to discard the glaze and start over with a fresh batch.

How to Eliminate Odor from Underglaze Jars

Underglaze jars can get really stinky. Some in particular, such as the various reds from the Amaco Velvet Underglaze line, seem prone to getting stinky.

To prevent odors with underglazes:
> Remove any cardboard liner from the caps
> Stir to mix. Don’t shake all the underglaze against these cardboard liners
> Try to prevent brush bristles from dropping in
> Keep any other organic matter out of the jar

But if your underglaze gets stinky? There may not be much you can do. It’s such a small volume, and our best remedy, copper carbonate, is a colorant. Still, you can try adding a very small amount of copper, approximately 1 gram or less. Stir into your underglaze, cap it up, and wait 24 hours. Check and repeat if necessary. Caution: you will change the color of your underglaze if you add copper to them! I’ve done this a few times with the extremely-prone-to-stinkiness Bright Red Velvet Underglaze. The copper mutes the red a bit, but it’s actually a lovely result that is still red.

But the conclusion is, there may not be much you can do for a stinky underglaze except to tolerate it and/or discard and buy a new jar.

Maintaining and Dealing With Odor in Slop Clay Bucket

A slop bucket is a great way to reduce the amount of clay going into your sink and can also be used for initial cleaning of splash pans and throwing buckets. If there was room, I’d have a series of three of these for cleanup. But in the studio I manage, there is just one 40 gallon trash can with a mesh lid. It’s used to collect all the throwing slop.

Ideally, this trash can gets completely emptied about once a month and the heavier slop is saved and mixed with reclaim clay. But while the slop is building up, the bucket can get pretty stinky. And if you recycle stinky slop, then you have stinky reclaim clay (although the process of mixing does seem to help alleviate some problems with smell.)

The first step I would take with a stinky slop bucket would be to completely empty it and clean with soap. Then, sterilize the bucket or trash can with bleach and let it dry completely. Usually this will eliminate your stinky slop bucket problem for at least a few months up to 6 months. Slop buckets will always get smelly at some point so just plan to fully clean and sterilize it on a regular schedule.

A more extreme solution is adding a small but regular dose of copper carbonate to your slop bucket. Caution: adding copper carbonate to reclaim clay may result in small green spots showing up through white or clear glazes as you are adding copper to your clay! Use this method at your own risk.

The tutorial below covers maintaining a slop bucket with copper. As mentioned, try cycling your materials more regularly, keep organic material out of your bucket, and give your bucket a deep clean before trying this method!:

Step 1: Remove water, add copper carb, and stir

Ideally, the slop bucket is a settling tank so that heavier clay particles will separate and fall to the bottom. Pictured here is a 40 gallon trash can. As the can fills to the top and settles, pull off the top 10 gallons of water. This watery slip goes down the sink in my studio, but you could choose to let it settle and then decant.

After taking off the top 10 gallons, add about a half a spoonful of copper carbonate. This is about 2-3 grams of copper carbonate.

After adding the copper carbonate, stir or mix the whole slop bucket with a drill. It helps to disperse the copper.

Add about 1/2 spoonful of copper carbonate per approximately 20-30 gallons of slop.

Add about 2 to 3 grams (about 1/2 spoonful) of copper carbonate per approximately 20-30 gallons of slop.

Copper carbonate on the surface, ready to be mixed into the slop.

Copper carbonate on the surface, ready to be mixed into the slop.

Step 2: Clean the Lid

A clean lid for our slop bucket.

A clean lid for our slop bucket.

Not exactly necessary, but a regular lid cleaning makes it easier to maintain and inspires respect from your fellow studio mates.

It’s a bit hard to see in the picture, but I am are using my favorite pro-grade cleanup sponges.

For the lid on our bucket has a DIY screen made by cutting a hole in the trash can lid and attaching rubberized mesh with nuts and washers. The mesh helps to keep tools, sponges, and large chunks of clay out of the slop bucket.

 

Step 3: Repeat as Necessary

Our bucket with a clean lid and a bit of copper to prevent any stinky odors.

Our bucket with a clean lid and a bit of copper to prevent any stinky odors.

As stated above, it takes us approximately 1 month to end up with about 15 gallons of heavy slip but usually every week or more often, I remove the top layer of watery slip from the bucket. Every time water is removed, I add copper to the bucket.

Once there is 15 gallons or so of heavier slop at the bottom of the bucket, I remove it and put it in 5 gallon “settling tanks,” This watery slop is then poured over dried out scraps or added to the pugmill as needed. It’s the best way I can think of to capture all the fine particles left over from the throwing process. I’ve also found that as this slop with copper moves through the reclaim process, it combines with other clay and helps keep that reclaim from getting stinky too.

Occasionally, I do notice a little green copper speck popping into a white glaze from the reclaim clay, so if you want to be extra careful, use the least amount of copper necessary, or mix it into a watery slurry before adding to your slop bucket.

Summary

This post has covered a variety of ways to deal with smelly glaze, underglaze, and slop buckets. Also detailed is how to use copper carbonate to eliminate odor in glaze buckets, underglaze jars, and slop buckets. It’s an effective and affordable way to manage the inevitable odors that arise in a ceramic studio.

Do you have any other techniques for maintaining odor-free slop and glaze buckets? Let us know in the comments.

Shop materials and tools mentioned in this post: